Hive wood treatment ?

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Murox 

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Right, took the plunge and ordered a pine national hive all in, brood box, 2 supers frames wax etc, (pic attached hopefully) from bee-equipment.co.uk,yes I know 'pine' but I'm on a limited budget, what I wanted to ask, as it is pine, what do recommend to treat, preserve and weather proof the hive, I have plenty of time, a good few months to apply multiple coats.
What do you guys recommend.
Cheers
Mark
The good thing about wood is its ability to absorb moisture and 'breathe'. Whatever you use on the outside make sure it doesn't compromise the wood's ability to 'breathe'.
 

Curly green finger's 

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The good thing about wood is its ability to absorb moisture and 'breathe'. Whatever you use on the outside make sure it doesn't compromise the wood's ability to 'breathe'.
Is country shades going to let the hive breath? Im making new boxes up now and going to give them a couple of coats, I'm not getting to February/march and having to spend numerous mornings making kit!... Wishful thinking :rolleyes:
 

PeaBee 

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Think the OMF let's it breathe
 

Garry R 

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Right, took the plunge and ordered a pine national hive all in, brood box, 2 supers frames wax etc, (pic attached hopefully) from bee-equipment.co.uk,yes I know 'pine' but I'm on a limited budget, what I wanted to ask, as it is pine, what do recommend to treat, preserve and weather proof the hive, I have plenty of time, a good few months to apply multiple coats.
What do you guys recommend.

Cheers
Mark
Given that economy hives may be a little warped use Gorilla glue when constructing them. Don't use too much. Not only very strong but also space filling and when all set you can remove the stuff which has squeezed out and then sand the joints flush. As for preservative I used Barretine (from Ebay) on my home made long hive made from pallet timber on a recommendation from a friend. This is very runny BUT after a few coats soaks in very well and when dried has left a waxy feeling surface which seems to repel water well. I have also used Ronseal woodstain 10 years water based but NOT the quick dry. This is is solvent free and seems to work well on the outside of floors, edges of excluders. I haven't experience of broods and supers as mine are all poly with home made floors and excluders and crown boards amd just do the outside edges. Seems to work well.
 

Murox 

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Is country shades going to let the hive breath? Im making new boxes up now and going to give them a couple of coats, I'm not getting to February/march and having to spend numerous mornings making kit!... Wishful thinking :rolleyes:
I don't know the product at all as I don't use that sort of decorative stuff. Is it also Microporous, so letting the timber breathe? When I finish my home-made long hives I use a high quality exterior grade microporous paint. To date, the oldest one is now 4 years old, none have peeled, blistered or allowed water through. Sun has faded the colour a little. Given they were constructed from free pine cladding even the movement of the boards has not resulted in water penetration, most joints were glued. I used three thin coats during construction and a final 'lick' when it was put in place. Another one I made is from untreated larch lumber which had one good coating of linseed oil and turpentine mix applied on site, box is now five years old and look pleasantly grey mostly, bit of algae colour here and there.
 

Finman 

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Think the OMF let's it breathe
When the wall abdorbs water, it should dry up outwards. It takes respiration water from bees and rain water from sky.

Paint's duty is to seal the wracks of the wood, that rain does not go into the wood.
Light color, that sun does not heat the wood much. Heat of the sun dry up the dark wood and the wood wracks more than light color.
 

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