Hive wood preserver

[BlipiBee]

I figure this topic has probably come up several times, however, I just need to be sure before I go an buy.

From what I have been told, Cuprinol Clear and Mahogany are suitable wood preservers.

My hives are mahogany coloured so would prefer to stick with the same.

There are so many wood stains, preservers etc and I hope you can advise on the options and perhaps best places to buy from.

Good 'ol Ebay has 750ml mahogany at £6 including postage. Seems cheaper than most, but pointless getting if it's no good!

Thanks for your advice!

 

[BlipiBee]

Adding to this, Cuprinol web page still explains it cannot recommend any of it's products due to an ingredient change!

Aaargh! Help!

 

[BKF Admin]

I cant help as I just throw ordinary fence preserver on the outside of my hives.

Cheap cheerfull and does the job,I just leave them outside for a couple of weeks or overwinter if they are for the following season.

 

[barratt_sab]

We were told to use Sadolin Classic on the outsides only (and linseed oil on the insides). I have read Sadlin's impenetrable safety information, which seems to indicate that it is “Not regarded as a health or environmental hazard under current legislation”. We painted the hives as instructed and left them for a week before using them. The bees seem to be thriving, so I guess we’ve not managed to kill them with it.

 

[BlipiBee]

Thanks, I have not looked into Sadolin yet.

I may well be getting my bees in less than a week but have 2 hives so can exchange bits over. I only need to start with the brood box and stand anyway.

It all seems unclear. Although it seems waiting a few weeks before use is advisable. I may just get something that has deemed to be safe before. As long as there are no nasty true stories of bee problems using Cuprinol clear, cedar wood or mahogany recently then I'll have to hope for the best!

 

[Incatatus]

ronseal works fine for me

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

Used Cuprinol Red Cedar on my two without any obvious problems appearing (in retrospect red may not have been the wisest choice as they cant see it? Mind you they seem to alight without problem).

 

[Brosville]

for the 483rd time - boiled linseed oil (Rustin's is food-grade) with some beeswax melted into it - applied hot.... Cheap, smells gorgeous, looks good, and if you chose, you could eat it!

 

[keithgrimes]

for the 483rd time - boiled linseed oil (Rustin's is food-grade) with some beeswax melted into it - applied hot.... Cheap, smells gorgeous, looks good, and if you chose, you could eat it!

Hmmm. Yummy.

 

[Rosti]

Standard cuprinol fence preserver, mid brown, dark brown and green splotches (cammo 'cause hives are visible over winter from a road). as Admin says dried and 'matured a bit before use - no problems at all in terms of bee death.

 

[peteinwilts]

We were told to use Sadolin Classic on the outsides only (and linseed oil on the insides). I have read Sadlin's impenetrable safety information, which seems to indicate that it is “Not regarded as a health or environmental hazard under current legislation”. We painted the hives as instructed and left them for a week before using them. The bees seem to be thriving, so I guess we’ve not managed to kill them with it.

why linseed oil on the inside??

 

[Queens59]

I was on a German website earlier and they recommended linseed inside too, glad I'm not the only one to miss the point!!

 

[biggles]

for the 483rd time - boiled linseed oil (Rustin's is food-grade) with some beeswax melted into it - applied hot.... Cheap, smells gorgeous, looks good, and if you chose, you could eat it!

Ok just for clarification and the 484th time this works well. Just built a hive and thought what should I coat it with. Looked on here saw the oil and wax mix, so done it.
Not sure I like the smell and it tastes horrid, but made the dark wood look great.

Feels great painting with something so natural.

Thanks for the tip

Pete

 

[Haughton Honey]

for the 483rd time

for the 483rd time......if your hive is made of cedar then don't treat it.

It doesn't need it.

You'll only end up having to repeat the process every year or two which, if you have many hive, is laborious.

If you bought a quality cedar product in the first place then it will outlive you or I.

 

[tonybloke]

for the 483rd time -

fot the thousanth time, stop exaggerating!!

 

[keithgrimes]

for the 483rd time......if your hive is made of cedar then don't treat it.

It doesn't need it.

You'll only end up having to repeat the process every year or two which, if you have many hive, is laborious.

If you bought a quality cedar product in the first place then it will outlive you or I.

and they look great as they age.

 

[BlipiBee]

Well, looks like I'll be OK with most options!

I also thought that cedar shouldn't need treating, although they have already been so. I don't think there is anything wrong with them, except perhaps a lick to the landing board.

As I have no beeswax available (although sure I can buy blocks) I'll leave the linseed option for another time. With 2 hives I can treat and transfer if wanted.

Might even do my shed in the same mix!

Thanks for all your confusing opinions!

 

[barratt_sab]

why linseed oil on the inside??

Pass!

We've dutifully followed the instructions, but I was a little confused myself...

 

[Rosti]

Why linseed oil on the inside as wel .... Pass!

'Cause the bloke who gave the advice is also the chap who sells the linseed oil?

 

[MrB]

for the 483rd time......if your hive is made of cedar then don't treat it.

It doesn't need it.

You'll only end up having to repeat the process every year or two which, if you have many hive, is laborious.

If you bought a quality cedar product in the first place then it will outlive you or I.

I treated mine with cuprinol clear (perhaps i didn't need to )
but why would that mean i will need to repeat every year or two?