Hive staples

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AndyTh

House Bee
Joined
Feb 10, 2010
Messages
112
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15
Location
Worcestershire
Hive Type
Commercial
Number of Hives
8
Apologies but had no reaction from this enquiry in the Beekeeping items wanted thread, but does anyone know where I can still buy the hive staples with a rectangular cross section (not the chubby circular section ones in certain catalogues)? horneTs used to sell them, but at Beetradex , their rep told me they don't stock them any more. Anyone got some leftovers that they don't need or want?
 
Apologies but had no reaction from this enquiry in the Beekeeping items wanted thread, but does anyone know where I can still buy the hive staples with a rectangular cross section (not the chubby circular section ones in certain catalogues)? horneTs used to sell them, but at Beetradex , their rep told me they don't stock them any more. Anyone got some leftovers that they don't need or want?

I will get my guys to have a dig tomorrow. We may have a few boxes of those left lying around. We went the other way...over to the stronger round section ones some seasons back. Less saying bad words in the field at heather shifting time.

If they find them I will PM you.
 
I will get my guys to have a dig tomorrow. We may have a few boxes of those left lying around. We went the other way...over to the stronger round section ones some seasons back. Less saying bad words in the field at heather shifting time.

If they find them I will PM you.

Thank you, that is kind of you.
 
What are hive staples..

Big staple about 4inches long used to hold hive floor to bbox and bbox to super when preparing to move hives eg to heather. Tapped in with a hammer, though quietly so as not to enrage defending guards! Never had any come apart during about 100 hive moves over last 8 or so years (touch wood).
 
Big staple about 4inches long used to hold hive floor to bbox and bbox to super when preparing to move hives eg to heather. Tapped in with a hammer, though quietly so as not to enrage defending guards! Never had any come apart during about 100 hive moves over last 8 or so years (touch wood).

Thank you for that Andy, are they similar to what is used to fasten trusses together on modern day houses.
Like in this picture..
 

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I excuse for a bit of offtopic with mentioning one different solution - might help.
Over here a lot of beeks when moving hives ( migratory beeks especially) use cut from inner tube of cars ( across cut). I use it all the time also. Once I flipped from wheelbarrows whole one hive lang box and it didn't open, bees on my fortune went well also. I strapped one lang or two lang boxes hives with such ( two straps per hive - faster 2 persons doing it, especially hives with 2 boxes) .. Cost nothing, worth a gold.
 
Enlighten me, exactly how do you 'quietly'
hammer in a four inch staple. :eek:

Exzackery... battery powered nail gun, anybody?

Seriously, I have found using a screwgun quite rewarding in
doing maintainance insitu.
To relocate hivebodys what Michael Palmer said is great for
numbers, and the nylon cargo straps (32mm model) does
the job for a ute load of hivebodys.

Bill
 
Enlighten me, exactly how do you 'quietly' hammer in a four inch staple. :eek:

They are actually 2 1/8" with 7/8" legs on them....have a couple on my desk.

Hammer them in quietly? Not easy. We use either of two ways.

Make sure all the floors are stapled on the examination before shifting day.

Or shut them in before stapling them if loading them at the same visit.

Big hammer...gentle taps.....and tapping each end in turn so they go in evenly.

Then...unless you need to change box or floor for some reason, they can stay in place for years.
 
.
Transport belts are good. No nailing. Quick to operate. And polyhive do not stand nailing in moving.
 
I last used them more years ago than I like to think off.

One of if in doubt 2 Spansets will do the job cheaper and simpler and far far less chance of enraged bees having a vote.

Some things like Porters and staples and hive wedges are best left to museums.

PH
 
Enlighten me, exactly how do you 'quietly' hammer in a four inch staple. :eek:


We had just moved the bees back to their summer yards after apple pollination. At the time, we didn’t use pallets and forklifts to move the bees. We used the old and dependable “Armstrong” method. Smoke the hive and pick it up, place it on the truck, and get another. Moving 600 colonies into and then out of the orchard made for some long, interesting nights. Because we didn’t use pallets and forklifts, the hives were held together with four hive staples between each hive body, the bottom board being stapled to the bottom box. With a little smoke, hammering in the staples wasn’t a big deal. The bees pretty much ignored the banging, and the job was just one more step in readying the bees for pollination.
After pollination was another story. The bees were not a happy bunch, having been moved twice, once into the orchard, and once back out to their yards. If the bees were managed soon after the move, the slightest disturbance resulted in very angry bees. With so many over-crowded colonies to manage after pollination, I was never one to wait for them to calm down. The day after the bees returned from apples, we were out there reversing brood chambers, performing our swarm control, and adding supers for the flow. Before the colonies could be inspected and manipulated, the dozen staples, holding each hive together, had to be removed.
That was Buddy’s job. Wedge the hook of a hive tool under the staple, and pull the first leg, repeating for the second. As the wood released each staple leg, a loud “creeek” alerted the bees to possible intruders. “Creeek” as the second leg let go.
You must have had one of those hives. You know, the one that you always inspect last because they’re so ill tempered. A colony so mean, that you can’t remove the cover without the bees stapling your socks to your ankles?
Well, Buddy pulled the first leg of the first staple on just such a colony. “Creeek”! Was it a skunk? Was it a bear? Nope, it was Louis’ other brother Buddy. Out came the bees with such a vengeance that Buddy’s only option was to RUN!
Buddy was never one to back down from a challenge, and I did appreciate his willingness to take such punishment. But the job wasn’t finished. There were still eleven staples to pull. He creeps up to the hive from behind, inserts the hive tool hook under a second staple, and twists. “Creeek”, and out they come again, and there goes Buddy across the field, waving his arms and swearing like his sailorman brother. Two down, ten to go.
Eventually, with a ton of smoke, and coating of stings on old knot head Buddy, all the staples were removed, the bees manipulated, and my crew and I moved on the next apiary. The Barcomb yard will forever be remembered as “Buddy’s yard”.
 
I last used them more years ago than I like to think off.

One of if in doubt 2 Spansets will do the job cheaper and simpler and far far less chance of enraged bees having a vote.

Some things like Porters and staples and hive wedges are best left to museums.

PH

Yes indeed. They are an antiquity.....but when getting hive ready to strap it truly IS easier if the floor and the brood box are fastened together. We do not use them in any other circumstance than fixing the floor to the broodbox in wooden hives. They are a minority hive type for us now anyway.
 
I don’t understand any need for attaching the floors with staples while the bees are in residence. The smart ones would simply affix the floor to the brood box before adding frames of bees. Seems to be a rather simple way of avoiding hammering the hive and enraging the bees? Easier hammering in staples vertically too!

I screwed on the floors, of my polynucs, before using them. Seemed a better idea than doing it with bees in residence. Might just as well screw floors to full hives, if floors are going to be affixed for several years. Screws, even longones, are likely cheaper than large staples, these days.
 

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