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Springer 

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I am a bit confused about why a lot of people go for double hive stands, I have, but don't quite know why. Is it for economy of build and stability reasons?
Also, when doing an artificial swarm is it ok to place the hives 1m apart on a diagonal?
The reason for asking is that the farm where I keep my bees have quite a few nice round fencing poles, which have rotted at ground level and too short for their pig netting job.
I think these would make nice stable hive stands, re pointed and then knocked into the ground, pilot hole first ?
Have in mind to be optimistic and do a few stands early next year, before the bees are about, but what would be my best layout?
S
 
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Black Comb 

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The "Brother Adam" layout is oft quoted as being good but you need space to do this.

I make double as they are just as easy to make as single and 2 together don't seem to mind. You can still transport double in the back of your car if necessary.

As to A/s I did this last year with hives close together and the parent colony swarmed after the first queen emerged. I did like it says in the book and left 2 queen cells (" the bees will sort them out") but the real reason MAY have been that I did not move the hive to the other side of the stand after 7 days thereby ensuring that the parent colony did not have too many flying bees. So lesson learnt, artificial swarms in same apiary move to bleed off flying bees back into the A/S hive.

I'll try a snelgrove or horsley board this year as from what I've read they are effective.
 

rowbow 

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I use the single hive stands fixed to the OMF with spring clips, I think when you have multiple hives on one stand the vibration when manipulating one hive travels through to the other/others, just my thoughts. ?

John
 

drstitson 

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"I think when you have multiple hives on one stand the vibration when manipulating one hive travels through to the other/others, just my thoughts. "

perhaps we should take on board a few things from the HI-FI world and build our hive stands with floating damper mechanisms to prevent just such a problem - an inflated bicycle inner tube around the underside of the OMF floor would be a good start.
 

Black Comb 

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some I've seen are 4 to a pallet, each exiting a different direction.
 

johna 

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Double hive stands are fine as long as the entrances face in different directions.
 

Rosti 

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Double stands are great. I make mine 62" long which gives a comfortable gap into which you can stack your removed hive parts without bending to the floor. makes for quicker and more controlled inspections IMO
 

Erichalfbee 

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I have three hives in a line with room to AS each as required.
Space/hive/2 spaces/hive/2 spaces/hive/space.
 

Springer 

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Thanks for the replies All,
Double seems the popular choice, but I assumed that that both hives faced forward so the speak, so its off the ends then. :confused:
S
 

Poly Hive 

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Double Hive stands are great things although to my mind having the hives at 180 degrees is a bit silly as you will always have a front door fcing you as you work the other one which is hardly ideal?

As for vibration it depends on how solid the stand is and how rough you are.

The one aspect not mentioned really is the height advantage which if you get an achy back working hives at ground level is a pleasant surprise.

The ones at Craibstone which folded are on my picture thread.

PH
 

oliver90owner 

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Springer,

I am a bit confused about why a lot of people go for double hive stands, I have, but don't quite know why. Is it for economy of build and stability reasons?

Very sorry, but.... if you word your question like that you would expect to get replies from people with doubles. Therefore the conclusion you have drawn from the thread may be seriously flawed.

I, for one of many, did not join in the thread for that simple reason - I don't use doubles. All mine are singles, for the record.

Regards, RAB
 

Springer 

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Double Hive stands are great things although to my mind having the hives at 180 degrees is a bit silly as you will always have a front door fcing you as you work the other one which is hardly ideal?
Double for me with legs knocked into ground and the rest built in situ, that should fix the vibration thing !
Still confuse about the layout, if both in same direction is not advised, does not "off the ends" solve things?
Off to see if the bees are out, as mentioned by others !
 

Poly Hive 

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Working off the ends means twisting very awkwardly. Not a good idea as beekeeping is not the best thing for the human back at best.

My single stands were very simple. 3 foot lengths of 6" deep timber with a half check at the half way point, making a cross when joined on on top of the other. Every half fitted every other half so no issues there. The hive sat neatly on the cross and it just worked.

These days, shock horror I just set them on the ground.

KISS

PH
 

Springer 

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Thanks for that PH, think I know what I'm doing now, on this bit anyway !
 

oliver90owner 

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Working off the ends means twisting very awkwardly.

Don't understand this. The OP has square hives (Nationals), so surely just have the frames the other way?

Regards, RAB
 

Poly Hive 

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I took him to mean he had the colonies facing back to back on the stand Rab.

I would find that awkward.

PH
 

Hivemaker. 

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Can't see that it would make a jot of difference if the frames were cold way,no different standing by the side of the stand, or the end of the stand, if the entrance was facing forward, with just a two hive stand.
 

Poly Hive 

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I agree if cold way but I ran my Nats warm and hence my comment on twisting.

Each to their own though.

PH
 

Rosti 

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Each to their own I think guys. I run doubles (posted on this thread previously) with both hives facing forwards. I frame up cold way and inspect from the central rear point of the stand, I find it okay and certainly using the middle of the stand to put the dismantled hive parts on is a real bonus (and if multiple brood boxes a queen security bonus - minimal move distance if you miss her). R
 

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