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beeboybee 

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hi all just got my hive stand made with some wood from a skip... great but i failed to notice just how twisted the wood was:smash:
consequently when i had dug the holes for the legs and levelled one edge the other would not go level as the frame is twisted... its out by about 2cm is this going be a problem should i just get some sraight wood and redo the top parts:banghead::banghead:
 

oliver90owner 

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Each hive needs to be reasonably level (in both axes) and stable. How you do it is up to you.

I hope those legs are treated - but it will last a while, built that heavy.

Regards, RAB
 

Rosti 

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Thats sturdy and too good to waste! - plain the top level - doesn't matter that the rest is wonky donkey! I agree with RAB, don't dig it in. Place it on bricks and use 2 x corkscrew dog tethers and strap it down to those at each end, more stable and better rot protection.
 
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beeboybee 

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i think i will unscrew the long bits of wood and see if i can get it a bit more level.. i have buried the legs about a foot and a half with another bit of wood joining the legs together.... under the soil..... my intention was to make the stand as hard as possible to push over should anyone try! i will then use ratchet straps for the hives. only planning on using the stand for hopefully two seasons as its on an allotment and i need to see how it works out!!!!!!:seeya::seeya:
 

oliver90owner 

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If you are pulling hives down with ratchet straps, you may find, after two years, your hives will be as wonky as the stand. But it may be hardly noticeable if you simply level up with some battens.

Also you may find the hives are not at the optimum height for you. If they are too low it is easy enough to add some more woodwork later to raise the hives. I looks a better height (for an average person) for 14 x 12s. Experience will be required to find your particlar optimum.

Regards, RAB
 

beeboybee 

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think i will batten it to straighten top edge as well, hopefully hight is good for me 6'3" using 12x14 brood!bee-smillie
 

oliver90owner 

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At 1.9m, you may need it higher. Will depend on arm length as well, of course. Trouble may still arise when you have 4 supers piled on top of a 14 x 12!

Regards, RAB
 

Mike a 

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At 1.9m, you may need it higher. Will depend on arm length as well, of course. Trouble may still arise when you have 4 supers piled on top of a 14 x 12!

Regards, RAB
Arr but the fun really begins then, because he can dig another hole and mount a ladder in the hole to suit the height of the supers on the hive. :beatdeadhorse5: :smash:
 

oliver90owner 

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Top rung of a step ladder.......with a full super.....scaffolding would be safer!

Regards, RAB
 

Rosti 

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now confused? seem to have found myself logged in to the 'coalmininingforum.co.uk'
 

beeboybee 

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what is the normal height of the top of the brood box,i am trying to get a balance so its not too tall with all my supers stacked on top! but more importantly not to low so i get a bad back doing inspections.....bee-smillie
 

plumber 

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for me a working hight of 900mm is ideal so top of brood box 14x12
plus supers x 3 1450. may need a hop up lifting a super is not a problem
have to lift boilers on to wall mounts of 45 to 50kg. leaning over to work on
a hive makes my back ache. put 3 supers on your kitchen work top and
think could I lift that off full of honey ? one at a time.
 
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