Hive made from foldable grocery crate -- your thoughts?

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ugcheleuce

Field Bee
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
Messages
669
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Location
Apeldoorn, Netherlands
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
7-10
G'day everyone

I'm a beginner beekeeper and I wanted to put all my beekeeping stuff together in one place, so I got myself a foldable grocery crate from the local grocery store. When I placed one frame in it, I realised that the crate is almost the perfect size for the frame. So I wondered whether it would be feasible to turn the crate into e.g. a brood box.

I've attached my preliminary idea in a PDF, to this post. I may have made some mistakes with the measurements etc, and perhaps this is the silliest idea you've ever heard of, but I would still like to hear about your thoughts.

For the sake of some conversation on-forum, here are the questions that I ask at the end of the PDF itself:

1. Would it be okay for me to use stationery/packaging grade styrofoam inside the bee hive? Won't the bees nibble take the styrofoam apart? With what can I treat the styrofoam to protect it from the bees?

2. Can I get away with using 8 mm hardboard for the lid and/or tray, or must I go for something thicker? Obviously the board would be painted against rain damage.

3. Would there be sufficient insulation in this box? Keep in mind that the only thing between the bees and the cold (if you don't warp the hive for the winter) would be 20 mm of styrofoam plus about 5 mm of newspaper/cardboard, plus a thin layer of hard plastic.

4. What effect would it have on the crate's ability carry weight if I cut a hole in the crate bottom? Normally the crate is strong enough to carry groceries that weigh a tonne if you have to carry it from the car to the kitchen.

5. Given that the handles of the box are on the short sides, wouldn't it be better to use make the flying holes on the long sides? That would also mean warm build.

6. How would you deal with the large space between frames in stacked boxes? The space between frames in the bottom box and top box would be 16 mm – the bees would fill it with wax. One solution may be to partially cover each box's frames with a sheet of plastic, but that would mean that the bees would have to walk around the plastic and it would interfere with varroa control, since not all mites would fall all the way to the tray at the bottom. Another solution, which would not interfere with varroa control, may be to attach strips of wood to the tops (or bottoms) of the frames so that the frames reach the correct height.

7. Do you think garden hose pipe would give the bees enough room to enter and exit the hive, or would a garden hose be too narrow for two bees to pass each other? What else can I use from the hole in the plastic to the space inside the hive, to prevent the bees from entering the spaces between the inner wall and the outer plastic crate wall? Or should I just cut a long slit at the bottom in the same way that an ordinary hive would have?


Thanks
Samuel
 
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I would save up and buy a proper hive.. a polly Langsrtoth's made for keeping bees in!

But ... it can bee fun to experiment!
 
:welcome:
It's a champagne crate you need.
And if you only need the crate, and you don't want the champagne, you can send it to me :D
 
Wow Samuel ... I thought I was being a bit radical but you are stretching radical and recycling to the extreme: This is what I have made ... mainly reclaimed timber with polystyrene insulation:

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=24058

I think your idea is going to be difficult to accomplish for a variety of reasons:

a) The materials you are proposing to use (even after painting) are not going to be able to withstand the weather ... I think that damp is one of the biggest problems for bees to accommodate... cold not such a problem ... but they need a home in which they can maintain a stable environment. You really would be better using solid timber to clad the crate outside ... poly on the inside. But ... if you are doing that you might as well dispense with the crate !

b) Bee space (if you are going to use frames) is criticalo ... too much and they will build comb in it, too little and they will stick it up with propolis. Bee space has been well documented since Langstroth ... it really is IMPORTANT.

c) Full hives are very heavy ... I'm not sure how much thes crates you are proposing to use will flex ... they really need to be quite rigid.

If you are adamant that this is the only way you will go beekeeping then I would forget frames, clad the crates in pallet timber with some poly inbetween the timber and the plastic crate ... some hardboard on the inside of the crate and then just go Top Bar ... if you do Top bars only then you can forget bee space. Make a proper lid to fit on the top of the hive and make sure it's weather proof and insulated. Forget a big hole in the bottom it's too complicated.

But ... it's a lot of messing about with some materials and existing dimenions that don't lend themselves easily to a bee hive.

The post above telling you to save up and buy a ready made poly hive (or even a second hand conventional hive) is soiund advice ... I spent a lot of time once, trying to make a car trailer out of a bakery trolley .... in the end it took ages, cost more in other bits than i ever dreamed possible, it never pulled straight and was unsaleable when I realised it was useless ... it went to the scrap yard.

Learn from my mistake ... find another way to go beekeeping if you can ! Good luck.
 
I thought I was being a bit radical but you are stretching radical and recycling to the extreme...

Actually, I have little concern for recycling. I just want cheap and easy.

Of course, I have some hardboard lying about, of various thicknesses, but instead of trying to make that fit into a design, I'd rather just buy the right materials to make the design as simple as possible. With recycled materials, one tends to spend more money on making the materials fit the design, and every box's design is different because the materials aren't standardised.

Bee space (if you are going to use frames) is criticalo ... too much and they will build comb in it, too little and they will stick it up with propolis.

I had hoped that the way I treated bee space in my design is at least as precise as it is in the commercial hives that we use in my current country. Bee space is considered between 6.5 mm and 9 mm, and the usual frame distance is either 35 mm or 38 mm. In the commonest wooden Dutch hive the space between frames between two stacked boxes is 10 mm. Do you know what the measurements are in your country?

Full hives are very heavy ... I'm not sure how much thes crates you are proposing to use will flex ... they really need to be quite rigid.

Good point -- I actually thought of this but forgot to include it in the PDF. I suspect there will be some flex, if the boxes are moved a lot.
 
Why don't you make an inner framework using corrugated plastic (correx), and fill the gap between it and the box with some form of insulation?

It can be fastened together using gaffer tape. It's fairly rigid, a goodish insulator, is weatherproof. A couple of bits stapled, taped or glued, together should be strong enough to support full frames.

If you use hardboard it'll buckle when it gets damp, if you use plywood you'll probably need to use the more expensive marine ply, otherwise it'll probably absorb atmospheric moisture and split.
 
Why don't you make an inner framework using corrugated plastic (correx)...

Thanks, I investigated that possibility after reading your post, but corrugated plastic is very hard to find in Holland (they call it vikuprop), and quite expensive too.

If you use hardboard it'll buckle when it gets damp...

How about if I wrap the board and/or styrofoam in a protective material, such as transparent tablecloth plastic sheeting? On a Dutch forum someone also suggested wrapping the styrofoam in aluminium foil, to prevent the bees from eating it, but I think that that will be prone to tearing very quickly.
 
Thanks, I investigated that possibility after reading your post, but corrugated plastic is very hard to find in Holland (they call it vikuprop), and quite expensive too.

Do Dutch estate agents use it for their boards? How about used election posters, or any other marketing material?
 
Hello Samuel

I'm on my way out of the house, so this will have to be quick.

If a frame fits well into this crate - then keep the crate to store your frames in.

For a simple DIY hive using recycled materials, consider making a Horizontal (Tanzanian) Top Bar Hive. If you adjust the measurements to fit your frames, then you will have made a Long Hive.

Google "Michael Bush & Long Hive" for more info.

Got to go ...

LJ
 
Daniel, it ain't going to get you to the right place, even after lots of work. Sorry.

As a beginning beekeeper, the bees are going to give you enough interesting problems without adding ANY more, such as any created by your own hive design.

I haven't (and I doubt many others here have) encountered your Dutch Simplex frames, or your current 6-frame hive.
I suspect that your 6-frame hive might be a nucleus hive (for growing a colony up to the level when it can be transferred to a full hive.
That's what it looks like to me http://bijenhof.e-motions.be/cataloog/productfiche.aspx?lang=E&product_code=102183&groep_code=10B

Your next step should be a full-sized hive, using the same frames.
This looks like an 11 frame box http://bijenhof.e-motions.be/cataloog/productfiche.aspx?lang=E&product_code=11096&groep_code=101 at €21 for the brood box.

My suggestion would be that you start with a 'standard' hive box, and then make your own parts for it - a better insulated roof, a coverboard, a feeder/clearer board, etc ... even a floor/entrance.
These are simpler, generally less critically dimensioned - and can add up to a significant cash saving.
But you need to get the bigger box NOW, so you have time to make the bits, before your bees grow out of their 'nuc'. You probably have weeks rather than months ...

Good luck!
 
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Daniel, it ain't going to get you to the right place, even after lots of work. Sorry.

As a beginning beekeeper, the bees are going to give you enough interesting problems without adding ANY more, such as any created by your own hive design.

I haven't (and I doubt many others here have) encountered your Dutch Simplex frames, or your current 6-frame hive.
I suspect that your 6-frame hive might be a nucleus hive (for growing a colony up to the level when it can be transferred to a full hive.
That's what it looks like to me http://bijenhof.e-motions.be/cataloog/productfiche.aspx?lang=E&product_code=102183&groep_code=10B

Your next step should be a full-sized hive, using the same frames.
This looks like an 11 frame box http://bijenhof.e-motions.be/cataloog/productfiche.aspx?lang=E&product_code=11096&groep_code=101 at €21 for the brood box.

My suggestion would be that you start with a 'standard' hive box, and then make your own parts for it - a better insulated roof, a coverboard, a feeder/clearer board, etc ... even a floor/entrance.
These are simpler, generally less critically dimensioned - and can add up to a significant cash saving.
But you need to get the bigger box NOW, so you have time to make the bits, before your bees grow out of their 'nuc'. You probably have weeks rather than months ...

Good luck!

Who's Daniel
 
Daniel, it ain't going to get you to the right place, even after lots of work. Sorry.

As a beginning beekeeper, the bees are going to give you enough interesting problems without adding ANY more, such as any created by your own hive design.

I haven't (and I doubt many others here have) encountered your Dutch Simplex frames, or your current 6-frame hive.
I suspect that your 6-frame hive might be a nucleus hive (for growing a colony up to the level when it can be transferred to a full hive.
That's what it looks like to me http://bijenhof.e-motions.be/cataloog/productfiche.aspx?lang=E&product_code=102183&groep_code=10B

Your next step should be a full-sized hive, using the same frames.
This looks like an 11 frame box http://bijenhof.e-motions.be/cataloog/productfiche.aspx?lang=E&product_code=11096&groep_code=101 at €21 for the brood box.

My suggestion would be that you start with a 'standard' hive box, and then make your own parts for it - a better insulated roof, a coverboard, a feeder/clearer board, etc ... even a floor/entrance.
These are simpler, generally less critically dimensioned - and can add up to a significant cash saving.
But you need to get the bigger box NOW, so you have time to make the bits, before your bees grow out of their 'nuc'. You probably have weeks rather than months ...

Good luck!

Samuel, this and Little John's advice is very good ... without trying to discourage your beekeeping ITMA is right ... go for something standard - a plain insulated wooden box to standard frame sizes is not going to cost you a fortune. The hive I made only cost me about £25 - and that cost was mainly fixings - you could knock up a tanzanian top bar style box in a weekend with very few tools other than a saw, a drill and a screwdriver add a few screws (You could use nails but I think screws hold reclaimed timber together better) and you will have a serviceable hive that removes some of the 'unknown' elements of a 'one off'. You will have enough to worry about when you get the bees without having to worry about the state of your hive.
 
It seems like a lot of effort just to make use of a "convenient" crate. Find out what grade plastic the crate is or you risk it becoming brittle after being exposed to UV and temperatre changes.

However, why not go ahead and prove everybody wrong.
 
It seems like a lot of effort just to make use of a "convenient" crate.

Well, I've only just started beekeeping, but I'm told that preparation amounts to over half of the hobby, so I don't think of this as "effort". I have all winter. I'm not going to have any use for such a hive unless I happen to catch a swarm (which is unlikely in my current country).

Find out what grade plastic the crate is or you risk it becoming brittle after being exposed to UV and temperatre changes.

A very good point, thanks.
 
I suspect that your 6-frame hive might be a nucleus hive (for growing a colony up to the level when it can be transferred to a full hive.

Yes. I'm doing a beekeeping course and this past week I received my first small colony (getting it is part of the course). It is a queenless 6-frame box with one frame capped brood and some eggs, one frame honey, and one more frame (mine had mostly honey on it), plus three empty frames, with some new bees on it. In about a week or two I'll break the emergency queen cell(s), and when they're hopelessly queenless, I'll introduce a queen from a breeder. It is likely that the colony will overwinter in the 6-frame box itself.

I don't want to start experimenting with other types of hives just yet. I know very little about beekeeping and I think it is is wise to use a method that is used by most other people in the local beekeeping association (i.e. not top-bar, not Warre, not Dartingon, nor any of the other very interesting looking hives). The crate design would fit in with what is currently the norm in my town, but I'm not married to it. If I hadn't noticed the snug fit of the frame in the crate, the idea of using the crate as such would never have occurred to me. After all, one can get second-hand hives for very cheap.
 
After all, one can get second-hand hives for very cheap.

Very sound advice that you are giving yourself ! I suggest you look out for a cheap hive ASAP because colonies can grow very quickly and 6 frames through the season may not be enough to contain them - although they could winter in that size box.

If you get a second hand hive - sorry if it's a very basic point - clean and flame it well along with any other equipment you buy with it.

Lots of luck ... it's a great hobby !
 

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