Help with WBC hive

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ian wallace 

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Hi guy can anyone help
I have just bought a WBC hive from Thornes
I don't know anything about this type if hive so I need some help
I have made the brood and supers up but i have a problem

There is a gap between all the boxes when you put them on top of each other
Surely this is not right

In the instructions it says to measure 7/16 down from the top edge
But the frames are sticking up from the top of the box reason why they are not sitting flush

Any advise please

Thanks
 

VEG 

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7/16 down is where your frame runner should be so that the frames are level with the top of the brood box.
 

ian wallace 

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Thanks instructions did not make this very clear. Better take them apart again then
Should have stuck with a national

Thanks
 

Andy Coleman 

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I have a couple of WBCs on one site, and I'm pleased with the way they came through winter, it's a bit exposed and I'm sure the insulation helped. Similar picture on our local association apiary where a WBC came through very well. Some dismiss them as too much work because of the lifts, but unless you're managing a lot of hives or doing it commercially I personally don't think it makes much difference.
 

whizzwheels 

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I have WBC's and I'm sure the extra wall and insulation keep them warmer in winter, especially when there is several inches of snow on the ground for a few weeks, as there has beeen the last two winters round here.
 

Mandeville 

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Useful tip with WBCs.

When hiving a swarm by getting the bees to walk up a ramp into it, don't put the lifts on until they're all inside the brood box.

I've just learned that the hard way! :eek:
 

Heather 

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I have similar problem with poor fitting boxes, had to add a little to one to stop a gap - but it is much further on than other colonies in Nationals on the same site. Filling 3rd super nicely.
 

Silly Bee 

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I think you reap the reward over wintering too, and Wood peckers are rarely a problem.
 

edjex 

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Useful tip with WBCs.

When hiving a swarm by getting the bees to walk up a ramp into it, don't put the lifts on until they're all inside the brood box.

I've just learned that the hard way! :eek:
What happens if you do have the lifts on before they're in? Do they set up shop in the space between the inner boxes and the lifts?

Unrelated question... how do you move a colony in a WBC hive? I'm going to need to do that later in the year when I bring mine home from the association apiary. I assume that as with all things WBC it's more involved than for a National :)
 

oliver90owner 

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Heather,

Filling 3rd super nicely

Would that be 30 frames, as opposed to 33 for a National? That could be nearly half a box difference dependent on how full the frames are (in the corners)! Having said that, I might expect the WBC super frames to be filled more fully. Also I don't know about you but I am stingy with super frames - I space them out to get more honey per super with less frames. So there can be large apparent differences which in practice do not exist. On top of all that you do seem to be more pro-active than some of the other people on the site?

I do agree with you, that 'warm' hives gets them going better in the spring. I stopped using my WBCs about 8 years ago but the Dartingtons are noticeably earlier to get building up in spring.

The polynucs were also well up there, so I am looking forward to evaluating the poly Nationals. I also note that Poly Hive says the first super is entered/drawn/filled better if it is a poly.

Regards, RAB
 

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