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FEEDING, the addition of thymol ALSO current lack of bb stores

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goodbobby 

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I see an increasing trend on the forum mentioning adding thymol to syrup . I am unclear as to the "raison d'etre" for this. I have seen varying references to varroa control, preventing syrup from fermenting and also nosema control......I know the methodology and dosage but why are beeks doing this and are there any downsides? When I have used Apiguard previously, queens have gone of laying and the bees seem distressed or at the least distracted. I will continue to Apiguard for varroa control but is this adding of extra thymol to syrup a good idea?

Also on the subject of feeding/stores I have a couple of hives both with plenty of bees and a couple of supers on each.Both are full of nectar and approx 1/3 capped. However the relevant 14 x 12 brood boxes have virtually no stores and seem to be declining in capped brood, although both queens are still laying and there are eggs and larvae. The weather here has been mixed but not disastrous. I can see the colonies have been uncapping sealed stores a bit. Any ideas??? .....as this seems to be a trend with other beeks....Is this the result of my bees being less able to forage in the last couple of weeks and will the colonies bring down the super contents into the bbs as the Autumn approaches?
 

Hivemaker. 

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In paragraph one you have answered your own question with regards to why thymol is fed in syrup.

In paragraph two why don't you remove the supers and extract, then start feeding the bee's ready for winter.
 

MuswellMetro 

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In paragraph two why don't you remove the supers and extract, then start feeding the bee's ready for winter.
there seems to be a worrying and growing trend amongst new beeks to want to keep honey supers on over winter " for the bees"

i considered keeping the two supers on with a mix partial un cappec and capped honey only leads to problems

1) to large an area to keep warm
2) queen can starve if you keep the QE on and they dont pack the brood
3) if QE taken off then when the bees move up you up with brood in the super
4) up capped honey can ferment as they tend empty brood store first
5) apiguard contamainted honey next year and the apiguard is less effective due to large volume
 
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kazmcc 

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I suppose it's because you think the bees made it for over winter so you feel a bit bad taking it and replacing with something " inferior " That's how I would think if I didn't have experienced beeks to advise otherwise, and explain the reasoning behind it. Not every new beek comes to find a place like this to learn about this kind of thing. I got lucky.

and some people taking up bee keeping are a bit fluffy lol, bit like me......I'm going to have to toughen up it seems :D
 

oliver90owner 

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MM,

I see nothing wrong at all with over-wintering on a brood and a half.

Both you and I operate the same size during the winter but with only the single box, so your point #1 is irrelevant

point #2 is stupidity on behalf of any beek that has actually read a bee book, read the threads on here or other internet sites, and stupidity if they haven't. Sorry but I put it that strongly. Repeat, STUPID.

Point #3 so what?

Point #4 -irrelevant if bees are fed sufficiently and early enough. the best can get caught out to a degre but to them it is not a problem; just remove, unite, dummy out, etc.

The instructions are clear for apiguard use. They simply need to be followed.

Removal of supers for apiguard and replacement afterwards should not be too difficult. fairly simple operation. Remove, extract, treat, replace super, feed. What is difficult about that?

Regards, RAB
 

goodbobby 

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thanks for responses

HIVEMAKER Thanks...Re thymol I was just looking to see whether there are any recent developing trends based on experiences/ research re. adding this substance to winter feed.
Re.uncapped honey I had two of the four supers fully capped at last inspection(22nd) and was going to put in clearers yesterday but some uncapping of stores had taken place.The weather is now cheering up and there is still good forage, so I will give it a week to see whether I can still harvest complete supers or feed back if full capping has not been achieved(which was always my second option)

MUSWELL ? although your response is directed at Hivemaker...I have certainly no intention of going brood and a half with 14 x 12s. I had enough problems with this messy system previously when using National standard bbs, particularly when exacerbated by the bees bringing in late Ivy honey! My winter strategy is to keep to single 14 x12 bbs, insulate and feed with fondant when necessary.

RAB I presume your response is directed at MUSWELL.......I value the knowledgeable input you often make and consider that you are one of the best sources on the forum....but why such an irascible tone?
 

clare p 

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I love this forum, it is such a good source of information and advice...............................
And thankfully I have learnt to laugh at the tone of "voice" in some of the replies

Clare
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx:sifone:
 

BeeNice 

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MM,

I see nothing wrong at all with over-wintering on a brood and a half.

Both you and I operate the same size during the winter but with only the single box, so your point #1 is irrelevant

point #2 is stupidity on behalf of any beek that has actually read a bee book, read the threads on here or other internet sites, and stupidity if they haven't. Sorry but I put it that strongly. Repeat, STUPID.

Point #3 so what?

Point #4 -irrelevant if bees are fed sufficiently and early enough. the best can get caught out to a degre but to them it is not a problem; just remove, unite, dummy out, etc.

The instructions are clear for apiguard use. They simply need to be followed.

Removal of supers for apiguard and replacement afterwards should not be too difficult. fairly simple operation. Remove, extract, treat, replace super, feed. What is difficult about that?

Regards, RAB
I watch with interest as one idea gets going only to be knocked down by someone else, I agree with Rab, as all the statements by Muswell seemed to go against everything I hear from bee experts I know. I now live in yorkshire (born and breed in Camden) maybe the climate is kind in London not so in Sheffield over winter, maybe you can get away with bee keeping methods in Town that are different in Yorkshire or Lincolnshire.
Most of the comments on the forum and very thought provoking, keep them coming as I and many other are still learning and from the discussion we can form our own ideas.
 

goodbobby 

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Hivemakers thymol recipe

HIVEMAKER.....Sorry, I had not discovered or read your sticky post on thymol recipe which would have saved me half my post in this thread! Very interesting and recommended to others: Thymol recipe
 

Erichalfbee 

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Yes , I've just made some of the emulsified premix. My grandson had great fun creating a label with skull and crossbones on it for me.
 

kazmcc 

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Ours are on brood and a half. I just have to trust the experience of our mentor. He must have a reason. They seem to be filling it nicely both outwards and upwards.

we are using a national
 
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