Feeding frames back to the bees

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Do224 

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I’ve read that people sometimes feed surplus frames of stores back to the bees in the spring. From what I gather they just place the frames over the hole in the crown board (presumably within an empty super) and let the bees come up and take the honey down. Is it as simple as that? Do you need a second crown board above the empty super to stop the bees gluing the roof down?
 
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I’ve read that people sometimes feed surplus frames of stores back to the bees in the spring. From what I gather they just place the frames over the hole in the crown board (presumably within an empty super) and let the bees come up and take the honey down. Is it as simple as that? Do you need a second crown board above the empty super to stop the bees gluing the roof down?
Moving honey in frames in a downward direction (i.e. from an upper box to a lower box) is very alien to bees. It's the opposite of what their instincts are telling them to do. It only works if you can persuade them that the frames above are in an area which is not part of their hive, which is quite difficult to do (just making them go through a hole in a crownboard certainly doesn't do it). Not worth the effort I think. Do as others are suggesting and put into the hive itself, or you could even nadir :)
 
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Curly green finger's 

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As above really they will use them easier if you add them directly into the hive where the bees are preferably right next to the cluster of bee's, colonys will Rob frames out from above but it's a load of hassle and not a natural thing for the bees to do as Boston Bees has said.
I've seen bees taking honey down from above( in the autumn) but the frames were in supers and not above a crown board remaining Heather and being cleaned up.
 

pargyle 

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I've seen bees taking honey down from above( in the autumn) but the frames were in supers and not above a crown board remaining Heather and being cleaned up.
Are you sure ? In my experience they will clean up spun out supers but if you want them to take down capped frames you really need to put them above a crown board with a small hole in it - it works even better if you bruise the frames and put a 50mm eke between the super and the crown board. However, if I had a full super to use to feed them up in the autumn I would always nadir it.
 

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I’ve read that people sometimes feed surplus frames of stores back to the bees in the spring. From what I gather they just place the frames over the hole in the crown board (presumably within an empty super) and let the bees come up and take the honey down. Is it as simple as that? Do you need a second crown board above the empty super to stop the bees gluing the roof down?
You could try this.
I know Eric Beaumont has found it works well.
 

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They will shift it from below the brood nest quite quickly (especially if ‘bruised). But always at a cost, so better to be used from adjacent to the brood nest. Simple, when you think about it…
 

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Yes I'm sure if they want stores around the brood nest they will move it as I said the frames were being cleaned and remaining Heather honey which wasn't capped and NOT full frames.
Are you sure ? In my experience they will clean up spun out supers but if you want them to take down capped frames you really need to put them above a crown board with a small hole in it - it works even better if you bruise the frames and put a 50mm eke between the super and the crown board. However, if I had a full super to use to feed them up in the autumn I would always nadir it.
 
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You could try this.
I know Eric Beaumont has found it works well.
I read this and it set off lots of alarm bells, think you’d need to do it on a colony that is far away from others, sounds a potential robbing nightmare that could easily get out of control, then what do you do, especially a beginner?
Might work but I’d like to hear first from anyone who’s tried it. Think nadiring the super below the brood box is much safer and effective and a lot less work
 
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I read this and it set off lots of alarm bells, think you’d need to do it on a colony that is far away from others, sounds a potential robbing nightmare that could easily get out of control, then what do you do, especially a beginner?
Might work but I’d like to hear first from anyone who’s tried it. Think nadiring the super below the brood box is much safer and effective and a lot less work
Yes, agreed

I mean, it sounds an intelligent method, but it says "This operation should not be done when there is a possibility of robbing" .....
 

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I read this and it set off lots of alarm bells, think you’d need to do it on a colony that is far away from others, sounds a potential robbing nightmare that could easily get out of control, then what do you do, especially a beginner?
Might work but I’d like to hear first from anyone who’s tried it. Think nadiring the super below the brood box is much safer and effective and a lot less work
Yes - it's overcommplicated and risky - I can see lots of problems in store with this method - all of which could be eliminated or at least reduced by other methods.
 

pargyle 

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Yes, agreed

I mean, it sounds an intelligent method, but it says "This operation should not be done when there is a possibility of robbing" .....
If you have a colony that is not of a sufficient size to defend it's entrance and you give them two entrances to defend then there IS going to be the propensity for robbing - more so if you have a larger colony in the area with robbing tendencies !
 

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I read this and it set off lots of alarm bells, think you’d need to do it on a colony that is far away from others, sounds a potential robbing nightmare that could easily get out of control, then what do you do, especially a beginner?
Might work but I’d like to hear first from anyone who’s tried it. Think nadiring the super below the brood box is much safer and effective and a lot less work
I agree there is a potential for robbing and I assume that's why it works. The colony sees the exposed stores and tries to clear them ASAP before robbing from elsewhere occurs.
I would like to hear Eric's comments next time he's around.
 

ericbeaumont 

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a potential robbing nightmare
I've used it during early spring flows when bees are busy, at which time there's little likelihood of robbing.
nadiring the super below the brood box is much safer and effective and a lot less work
Extra work is minimal: nadir the box, put on it a 450 sheet of thick plastic with a pencil hole in the middle, and put back the brood box.

Close the bottom entrance and establish a top entrance above the plastic sheet. If you use Abelo boxes, just take out the little block in the warm wall and walk away. I have a few old cedar boxes with holes drilled in the cold wall by previous owners; a cork or milk bottle top seals effectively.

The sheet prevents the nest developing downwards; after about ten days or so, the nadired box will be clean.
 
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I've used it during early spring flows when bees are busy, at which time there's little likelihood of robbing.

Extra work is minimal: nadir the box, put on it a 450 sheet of thick plastic with a pencil hole in the middle, and put back the brood box.

Close the bottom entrance and establish a top entrance above the plastic sheet. If you use Abelo boxes, just take out the little block in the warm wall and walk away. I have a few old cedar boxes with holes drilled in the cold wall by previous owners; a cork or milk bottle top seals effectively.

The sheet prevents the nest developing downwards; after about ten days or so, the nadired box will be clean.
OK, but in that case, you aren't using the method shown in the link, as this requires the bottom (original) entrance to be left open, but you close it.

I like your approach more though.
 
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pargyle 

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OK, but in that case, you aren't using the method shown in the link, as this requires the bottom (original) entrance to be left open, but you close it.

I like your approach more though.
It was the left open bottom entrance that bothered me .. with that closed off it is going to be a safer method ....
 

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