EH Taylor Honey Extractor - Identifying Plastic

[Mark Nolan]

Hi,

I have an old E.H. Taylor motorised honey extractor and as part of some general repairs, I need to fix the plastic lids which have cracked or torn over the years.

I'm going to use epoxy resin, but key to a successful fix is knowing the type of plastic. I've done some research and perhaps it's a heavy-duty polythene, but does anyone know for sure?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Phone Thornes and ask them - they took over EH Taylor years ago and may know

 

[Mark Nolan]

Phone Thornes and ask them - they took over EH Taylor years ago and may know

Aah, I thought the Thorne's extractors looked quite similar - I didn't realise they were essentially the same design!

 

[gillsmith]

It's a lightweight extractor.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Thanks Gill - I thought you'd now

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Hi,

I have an old E.H. Taylor motorised honey extractor and as part of some general repairs, I need to fix the plastic lids which have cracked or torn over the years.

I'm going to use epoxy resin, but key to a successful fix is knowing the type of plastic. I've done some research and perhaps it's a heavy-duty polythene, but does anyone know for sure?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

I bought some 3mm clear plastic from my local DIY store and made a new one. I took the opportunity to buy a new stainless steel rotor from thornes then bought some stainless steel flat bar and made a new bottom bar and fixed a piece of the same stainless under the top mild steel cross piece such that it projected sufficient to support the top cover sheet rather than allowing it to sag.
Over the years the winding handle had developed an annoying habit of unscrewing so that was modified with a part threaded stainless bolt and nylok nuts. It's going to last for years yet!

 

[Mark Nolan]

It's a lightweight extractor.

Thanks, Gill.

 

[Mark Nolan]

I bought some 3mm clear plastic from my local DIY store and made a new one. I took the opportunity to buy a new stainless steel rotor from thornes then bought some stainless steel flat bar and made a new bottom bar and fixed a piece of the same stainless under the top mild steel cross piece such that it projected sufficient to support the top cover sheet rather than allowing it to sag.
Over the years the winding handle had developed an annoying habit of unscrewing so that was modified with a part threaded stainless bolt and nylok nuts. It's going to last for years yet!

Good idea, although I think the lids can be successfully restored.

I do have problems with the hex/grub screws coming loose mid-extraction, so I've dropped a line to Thorne to see if they can advise on updating some of the components. They are usually very helpful.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Good idea, although I think the lids can be successfully restored.

I do have problems with the hex/grub screws coming loose mid-extraction, so I've dropped a line to Thorne to see if they can advise on updating some of the components. They are usually very helpful.

I changed all the nuts, bolts, grub screws and washers to stainless steel during repairs. I use long series allen keys in my toolkit and I can't say coming loose (with the exception of the winding handle) has been a problem. It's a meccano exercise

 

[GuyNir]

I replaced the cage on mine last year (same model). Loosening one of the grab screws was an experience (and not a short one...)

 

[Mark Nolan]

I changed all the nuts, bolts, grub screws and washers to stainless steel during repairs. I use long series allen keys in my toolkit and I can't say coming loose (with the exception of the winding handle) has been a problem. It's a meccano exercise

Thanks, John - I’ll be doing the same for mine and that should extend its life.

 

[Mark Nolan]

I replaced the cage on mine last year (same model). Loosening one of the grab screws was an experience (and not a short one...)

Replacing the cage is a good idea, I haven’t tried loosening the grab screws yet so that’s something to look forward to! It’s the cage/central bar coming loose from the connector that joins it to the motor that’s the really big problem for me. Perhaps changing the grub screws will help. One of the associated problems was my Allen Key getting stuck in the grub screw when tightening it - it took an awful lot of effort to finally release it!

 

[hemo]

My old EHT model had the tangent cage replaced several years ago with a nice new 9f radial jobbie, I'm still manual though as the expense of electrifying is a bit dear.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Replacing the cage is a good idea, I haven’t tried loosening the grab screws yet so that’s something to look forward to! It’s the cage/central bar coming loose from the connector that joins it to the motor that’s the really big problem for me. Perhaps changing the grub screws will help. One of the associated problems was my Allen Key getting stuck in the grub screw when tightening it - it took an awful lot of effort to finally release it!

I took an angle grinder to the old rotor (mild steel with plastic coating peeling off) To fit the replacement I centre popped the bottom of the fixing hole then made a suitable shallow indentation in the shaft with a drill. I also bought a stainless collar with 1/2" Hole from ebay, drilled and tapped a hole for a clamp screw then located it on the shaft under the new rotor to sit on the plastic bottom bush thus preventing the bush riding up out of the hole in the bottom bar.
At some point I might turn up a new bottom bush out of HDPE which was being used as strip guides under conveyor belts instead of rollers. Oddly enough the horsepower demand went down as the belt slid over the plastic readily due to its low friction.

 

[xray7]

Replacing the cage is a good idea, I haven’t tried loosening the grab screws yet so that’s something to look forward to! It’s the cage/central bar coming loose from the connector that joins it to the motor that’s the really big problem for me. Perhaps changing the grub screws will help. One of the associated problems was my Allen Key getting stuck in the grub screw when tightening it - it took an awful lot of effort to finally release it!

Mark, I had the same problem with my extractor, these are now 30 + years old and showing their age.But there is a quick and easy fix. Measure the distance on the spindle between the collar at bottom of the cage and the collar which interfaces with the bush. Then cut a section from a copper water pipe and place it between the two collars.This will keep the top fitting on the spindle engaged with the motor shaft. The hard rubber bush is easily damaged. replacement part was still available from Thornes up to a short time ago.

 

[Mark Nolan]

Mark, I had the same problem with my extractor, these are now 30 + years old and showing their age.But there is a quick and easy fix. Measure the distance on the spindle between the collar at bottom of the cage and the collar which interfaces with the bush. Then cut a section from a copper water pipe and place it between the two collars.This will keep the top fitting on the spindle engaged with the motor shaft. The hard rubber bush is easily damaged. replacement part was still available from Thornes up to a short time ago.

Thank you, xray7 - that's a really useful tip. It's great that these old extractors are still trundling along but they are bound to have a few parts that need replacing!