Early Wasp Control

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Somerford

Queen Bee
***
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Messages
2,024
Reaction score
577
Location
Wiltshire, Somerset, S Glos & S Oxfordshire
Hive Type
National
All,

I've noticed rather more worker wasps about the apiaries than in previous years for the tjme of year.
I'm looking to get on top of the problem asap before the hives get hit.

Please can we all share best practice....products, techniques, whats worked in the past, here so we can all negate what looks could be a bad wasp season.

Thanks

Somerford
 
Strong colonies, underfloor entrances, and don't throw honey or syrup around the place. Seems to work well enough, never lost a colony
 
All,

I've noticed rather more worker wasps about the apiaries than in previous years for the tjme of year.
I'm looking to get on top of the problem asap before the hives get hit.

Please can we all share best practice....products, techniques, whats worked in the past, here so we can all negate what looks could be a bad wasp season.

Thanks

Somerford

Are they trying to get in or looking around for bee bodies on the ground?
 
Strong colonies, underfloor entrances, and don't throw honey or syrup around the place. Seems to work well enough, never lost a colony

:yeahthat:

And don't leave home made jampot/pop bottle wasp traps lying around all over the apiary
 
A reduced entrance was my first line of defense last year, you need to create a tunnel type of entrance though 8mm high 100mm wide and 100mm deep into the hive entrance as it gives the bees a easier job to defend, my second line of defense was a Waspbane trap last which was placed near the hive and it sorted the problem out.
If it does not work by placing the trap near the hive place it infront of the hive at the same height as the entrance, if that does not work move the hive 3ft away and put the trap where the hive was, if that does not work this year i will be knackered lol , however i would say the colony is more than strong enough now unless a honey badger turns up.

All that information was much appreciated advice from Karol. well apart from the honey badger.
 
At this stage they are sniffing about and appear when I open a couple of the colonies. Interested in the 'tunnel' idea.

A respected elderly beek I know switches his hives to cold rather than warm so they don't have to defend a whole frame against a much reduced entrance.

Will look into wasp bane

As anyone used those fake wasp nest things ?

Re the jam pots do you find they merely attract more to the hives too and not deflect them ??

Strong colonies I get - it tends to be late swarms and nucs that cop it

I'd rather not unite but I may have no choice

S
 
Re the jam pots do you find they merely attract more to the hives too and not deflect them ??
S

Yes.

I find that underfloor entrances do a good job of deterring wasps - they seem to avoid them like the plague
 
Yes.

I find that underfloor entrances do a good job of deterring wasps - they seem to avoid them like the plague

:yeahthat:

Plus no mice problems, and a handy little landing board for those that think it's important. Should be the standard floor in my opinion - easy to make and more advantageous
 
Is the underfloor entrance an after-market addon to the normal floor, or is a new floor needed?

You can butcher an existing floor.
Fill in the existing entrance .
Cut a rectangular hole in the existing floor right behind the filled in entrance - approx 38/ inch wide and running parallel to the hive front.
Add what is effectively another floor below the butchered floor with a vertical dropping down from the rear of the rectangular hole which joins the floor above to the floor below The vertical runs from each side of the floor and has no gaps in it.. Add a landing board if none there.

Basically that's it...

(There are cheaper ways but that is the easiest)
 
Back
Top