Do you really need a mouseguard if you have an open mesh floor

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Skylark

New Bee
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Jul 19, 2011
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Bakewell
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National
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Do mice try and hibernate in hives with open mesh floors ? Wouldnt have thought so. I do have a mouse guard but have a reduced entrance by using a small piece of wood.
 
The idea is to have as much ventilation at the bottom of the hive as possible, so open entrances with mouseguard.

And why wouldnt the mice crawl up to the top of the hive to nest if they got in?
 
Of course you need a mousegard. A beehive is warm all year around. I lost one of my best colonies one year because I thought they were too big to be attacked by mice and didn't bother with mouseguard.
 
What? 4 beeks in agreement. Unheard of.
Cazza

I disagree, mouseguards are needless pollen knockers off, if you have reduced entrances to keep the mice out.
This was argued on another thread but I'm still convinced mice wont squash their heads under a 1/8 inch entrance
 
You must be keeping a different species of bee mbc. Honey bees could not get in an entrance of 1/8th of an inch.
 
MBC?

How much pollen is arriving over winter? Point 1.

2. If you are not using poly hives then you need a mouse guard.

3. If a mouse can get their heads in to a slot the body will follow as the ribs are very flexible.

4. How much do you value your bees at?

Because as sure as eggs if you dinna protect them from mice you will lose them.

PH
 
And what material is your entrance block?
 
Let's start an argument, (err sorry, a discussion).

Just measured a slotted steel and it had a gap of a smidgeon under 4.4mm

Some of the plastic Q/E from u-no-hoo were slightly undersized and trapped workers. Can't remember if anyone measured one of those acurately.

Now a bee will negotiate a Q/E slightly differently than a thicker material and again will need a little more space for a hive entrance.

Anyhow 1/8 inch (3.12mm) is definitely not enough but 3/16 may be - just - at 4.76mm.

Your average pencil is over 6.5mm, so I reckon a bee would just get under a 5mm entrance, but a mouse would not.

Any advance on that or do I need to machine out a slot to find out?

Regards, RAB

Maybe those with MB hives (and MB entrance slides) might check their entrances with the 'mouse guard setting' using drills as go/no go devices?
 
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Well spotted ! my mistake under 3/8 " maybe
Unfortunately this probably is enough for a small mouse to get in, although a largeish one might find it a squeeze.

I think you can get lucky and not encounter mice, but the damage they can cause just isn't worth it, and they are capable of nibbling into hive entrances even if they're too narrow to start off with. They might not be able to nibble as effectively as rats, but I've seen some substantial holes in bulb boxes which were clearly mouse-inflicted (rather than rat) - and that was when the boxes were covered with snow, so cold weather won't put them off.

And if I was a mouse, that warm, honey-scented, weatherproof box full of food and with its own built-in central heating system would sure be worth chewing the entrance a bit wider to get in...
 
mouse guards

I wintered down last year with OMF and much reduced entrance. Also blocked underfloor extra OMF with cardboard to cover ca. 60% of floor.
Hives on stands and entrances reduced to 30mm x 6mm. Didn't have a problem except had to clear dead bees at the height of the coldest period. Have mouse guards but have not used them yet (with 9.5mm holes).Started this spring with really strong colony and was the coldest winter for a few years down here. Don't think a mouse could get through my 6mm gap but will be advised by the members? I do however think that with an OMF and mouse guarded full entrance slot (on a national) the wind will get a bit penetrating on a chilly winter december/january day. Currently on Brood over super on both my hives so some protection from the elements if they go up as they should. 2nd winter so will see what happens but any advice/experience most welcome.
Pete.
 
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MBC?

How much pollen is arriving over winter? Point 1.

2. If you are not using poly hives then you need a mouse guard.

3. If a mouse can get their heads in to a slot the body will follow as the ribs are very flexible.

4. How much do you value your bees at?

Because as sure as eggs if you dinna protect them from mice you will lose them.

PH

:iagree:
 
...If you are not using poly hives then you need a mouse guard.
...

Could someone gently explain to me :confused: why you wouldn't need them if you do have poly hives?
Or is it specific to a particular hive model or range?
 
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I can only discuss the German ones, no longer available, and the Swienty ones very much available.

The reason is the entrance is just small enough so the mice canna get their heads in. If the head canna get in the body canna follow.

The mouse gap is (from memory) 10mm, hence mouse guard hole at 9.5mm

Gentle enough? LOL

PH
 

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