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Differant varroa floor

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Frithgar 

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Hey, I've mentioned this in another thread but wanted some opinions from the forum, I made a varroa floor for one of my hives in the spring, I used scrap wood I had lying around and bought some fly screen mesh for about 80 pence. The fly screen is actually enough to do 5 floors if I decide to do some more so good value even if it's not that strong.
The plans for the floor are here
http://www.edinburghbeekeepers.org.uk/downloads/diy_open_mesh_floor-graham-white.pdf
I've not had any complaints this year, I made sure to keep the entrance down to the floor at 8mm all the way across. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has used one like this and what you all think of it
Frith
 

oliver90owner 

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If it is a 'fly screen' it is probably not a varroa floor.

Tell us the mesh size.

Regards, RAB
 

roe1uk 

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is fly screen mesh to fine?
i think 8 holes per inch is recomended:cheers2:.
martin
 

Frithgar 

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2mm gaps in the mesh, I've put a board underneath to do a varroa count and it was minimal, although I did have some of the little beasties fall through. On inspections I see very little evidance of the mites, even when opening a couple of drone cells.
I will probably change the mesh to some proper sized varroa mesh when I can afford to buy some but got no problems with what I've got at the moment. I'm more interested in what you think of the differant entrance on this floor, opinions on any possible plus/negative to it.
Thanks
Frith
 
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Hebeegeebee 

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One isue I can think of which is relevant to the time of year - wasps.
You can't see what's happening so well with this kind of entrance so not so easy to see if they are causing a nuisance - and how to restrict the entrance?.
 

oliver90owner 

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even when opening a couple of drone cells.

A no-result. Inconclusive. Open a hundred, or at least a good fork-full. I, as do many others, keep an uncapping fork handy for that purpose.

Regards, RAB
 

fatshark 

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One isue I can think of which is relevant to the time of year - wasps.
You can't see what's happening so well with this kind of entrance so not so easy to see if they are causing a nuisance - and how to restrict the entrance?.
I've made a couple of these floors. If you make the gap between the landing board and the 'lintel' (for want of a better word) about 19 or 21mm, then a standard height entrance block fits not problem (though it will need shortening). Similarly, you can pack them with foam when moving hives.

More of an issue is having to cut down mouse guards, though it's not clear they are needed as the blighters will have to negotiate a right-angle corner going from ~20mm to an 8mm vertical gap.

D.
 

oliver90owner 

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I have underfloor 8mm vertical entrances on the Dartingtons. They are visible from the front (observing wasp activity) and have a landing board well below the entrance level (I think, from memory, about 44mm) and I simply lay in a block of wood about 36mm which gives the sharp right angle turn. I have not used anything else, as a mouse guard, on them since i've had them. A block of wood the full depth and required width will close off the entance against wasp attack.

I just have bits of various lengths handy, with a screw inserted as a 'handle' in each, and fit them as required.

Rule of halves is the norm for this - half, quarter, eighth, and sixteenth of width accomodates most rquirements, and the entrance can be where you want to place it. they usually live in the back section of the hive unless A/Sing. Keeps things simple for me!

Regards, RAB
 

rbaz 

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Thanks for the plans :) I am going to make one similar for my Dadant.
 

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