Danish oil on honey super

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
61
Reaction score
0
Location
Oxfordshire
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
3
Please advise me. I’ve just used Danish oil on a couple of supers. How long should I wait until I give them to the bees? I don’t want to taint the honey. Thanks
 
Please advise me. I’ve just used Danish oil on a couple of supers. How long should I wait until I give them to the bees? I don’t want to taint the honey. Thanks
Are they cedar supers? Have you put it inside them?
 
Would wait until it is reasonably dry to the touch. Place in a warm spot to help drying time. I applied it to teak the other day and still not fully dry. Funny enough I used Linseed oil on larch and it dried quicker.
 
One is cedar the other is pine. Yes I did inside too. Is that a mistake?
I'm not sure what sort of pine it is, but down here, almost all boxes are radiata pine which rots easily from the inside and out whether or not bees propolise the inside....it doesn't seem to matter. For that reason it is common here to paint the inside, but not with danish oil. Cedar is generally rot resistant because of the naturally occurring chemicals within it. The article below gives some tips about drying of the danish oil. My understanding of danish oil is that it generally has quite a few ingredients (second article below).


https://www.thewoodworkplace.com/danish-oil-not-drying/
https://www.dapwood.com/danish-oil/
 
I'm not sure what sort of pine it is, but down here, almost all boxes are radiata pine which rots easily from the inside and out whether or not bees propolise the inside....it doesn't seem to matter. For that reason it is common here to paint the inside, but not with danish oil. Cedar is generally rot resistant because of the naturally occurring chemicals within it. The article below gives some tips about drying of the danish oil. My understanding of danish oil is that it generally has quite a few ingredients (second article below).


https://www.thewoodworkplace.com/danish-oil-not-drying/
https://www.dapwood.com/danish-oil/
Thank you. That’s really helpful. What would you use to paint the inside of a pine super?
 
Thank you. That’s really helpful. What would you use to paint the inside of a pine super?
I don't paint them but I dip them in really hot wax which penetrates right through the wood. As far as I know, all acrylic paints have a fungicide in them (although the manufacturers design the paint to help keep it locked within the paint), but generally that is what people would use here as I understand it ...if they didn't dip.
 
Last edited:
I don't paint them but I dip them in really hot wax which penetrates right through the wood. As far as I know, all acrylic paints have a fungicide in them (although the manufacturers design the paint to help keep it locked within the paint), but generally that is what people would use here as I understand it ...if they didn't dip.
I’d love to understand the methodology behind wax dipping. Sounds like the perfect preservative.
 
I’d love to understand the methodology behind wax dipping. Sounds like the perfect preservative.

All the guys I know (and all are abroad) that do this go at high temperatures. To give an exact temperature is hard as the wax comes in different grades which have different temperatures at which they reach the various critical points.

However............the term dipping is fine but if it is leaving much in the way of visible wax on the boxes its not hot enough. The wax should almost be smoking and the term that (although not used) is more accurate might be frying the boxes in hot wax.

As other posters have alluded too this causes any water in the wood to be expelled, even the air in it expands massively, and once the box is removed from the tank it cools rapidly and draws all the wax still on it into the wood.

They dip the whole box in the wax at once, so its a lot of wax in their tank. Once out it appears bone dry almost immediately and if you are going to paint its best to do it while still hot. My friend in California painted his either with white or silver paint (the silver was a primer type...not sure which) too keep the heat down inside the hive in summer.

Where the paint flaked it was due to too much wax remaining on the outside so they had not been done hot enough.

Properly dipped boxes still looked almost new after 20 years. He had a few that had never been painted that were done by his father many years before and you would have thought them to only be a couple of years old.

Any that still had wax on the exterior were terribly slippy to use and until the bees had joined them on even a modest wind could cause the upper boxes to slide off a hive and tying loads down on a truck was interesting.

Never done it here because, done properly, it is a hazardo0us process and the wax catching fire was a fairly regular event as it was not too far below flash point. They kept the full panoply of fire fighting gear close at hand. Our space is relatively constricted and the potential for a nice vigorous wax fire near a store full of bee boxes is not an insurable risk.

AFB destruction? Yes have heard that gear from AFB hives that is wax fried does not get any recurrence of AFB upon reuse. Is it dead or entombed? Don't know but the practical result is the same.
 
Linseed oil
Avoid boiled linseed which has chemicals to accelerate drying. Raw is fine, nothing on cedar is best.

One drawback of oiling wood is that after a season or two black moulds feast on the oil; this can be removed easily by scrubbing with hot washing soda, but it's another pointless job I learned years ago.

Painting pine is also pointless unless you're prepared to repeat every few years, because wood breathes moisture and paint peels off; you may as well buy cedar seconds and save money, labour and weight when in use.

The dipping of pine and other vulnerable woods (see Antipodes) is not cheap nor without risk (see YouTube). Murray McGregor dips wood kit for estate apiaries on which the owner refuses plastic or poly (see calluna4u on Twitter).
 
there was no need to - the bees can sort out the inside without our interference
I guess I’m wondering if and when it’s ok to use the super for the honey flow now that I have mistakenly oiled it on the inside… I don’t want to upset the bees (can I harm them if I put it in soon?) and don’t want to taint the honey (it is still smelling 3 days later). So I want guidance about what to expect in terms of when I can safely use it now that I have clearly made a mistake by oiling the inside. Thanks
 
Perhaps use methylated spirit to remove any soft oil
Leave out the two outboard frames and pack the space with kingspan blocks until after harvest.
I'm sure I read somewhere about someone's grandad dipping boxes in creosote once a year-the scent of Danish oil is nothing in comparison!
Lesson learned but we all do things.
I think leaving the inside untreated lets the wood absorb and then release humidity - the colony has some control of this I'm sure.
 
Perhaps use methylated spirit to remove any soft oil
Leave out the two outboard frames and pack the space with kingspan blocks until after harvest.
I'm sure I read somewhere about someone's grandad dipping boxes in creosote once a year-the scent of Danish oil is nothing in comparison!
Lesson learned but we all do things.
I think leaving the inside untreated lets the wood absorb and then release humidity - the colony has some control of this I'm sure.
Ok. Thanks for the advice. The odour is remitting but I’m wondering as it’s a bit better if I could use it for brood and half -ie not honey. Will it upset the bees or be toxic??
 
Second that! Don't consider using it this year, in my experience Danish oil takes ages to dry (if it ever really does)
 
Will it upset the bees or be toxic?
Depends on the ingredients: danish-oil.com/how-we-make-danish-oil/ use 50% Tung oil and thinners that are a white spirit replacement which is low in odour, non marine-polluting, biodegradable and less irritating to skin than white spirit.

Dries in 4-6 hours and is food safe when dry and complies with BS EN 71-3: 1995, safe for use on toys.

What are the ingredients on your tin, Mamahilz?
 
I’d love to understand the methodology behind wax dipping. Sounds like the perfect preservative.
Done correctly it produces a really good well preserved box and kills of pathogens on used kit. but unfortunately to do it properly and safely requires the right kit which puts it beyond the reach of all but the large beefarmers. Basically you heat a tank of paraffin/microcrystalline wax to the required temp for the given wax blend and to the temps that will sterilise the kit, but crucially keep it below the flash point of the wax blend. You then put the boxes in the molten wax, which now resembles a big chip pan ( being carful the wood is not too damp to boil up) close the lid or have some other method to totally submerge the wood for a specified time to preserve and sterilise.
If you are on twitter you can see the kit used by beefarmers such as Murray (@calluna4U) and Chris Manton @elmtreebees. Youtube will show some crazy looking methods form elsewhere in the world that just look dangerous!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top