Conditions for OA treatment

[Little John]

Is there a good piece to read somewhere about how the OA is ditributed after sublimation? It would really help this question to understand the dynamics. Is it passed by grooming, by further evaporation, by friction, by tansfer from hive surfaces etc etc.

That's a very good question - it would be really useful to know that.
All I can say for sure is that it ends up as a very fine microcrystalline dust that coats everything in the hive - bees, combs, frames, box walls - every possible surface. I assume what happens then is that as bees move around, fan, and so forth - it becomes even more distributed amongst them. As bees brush against each other and the hive surfaces, the stuff will undoubtedly be transferred - but it would certainly be a good idea to poke a camera into a hive and see exactly what happens.

LJ

 

[SixFooter]

A sport battery from a caravan shop

On an associated point I recently saw this technique demonstrated. The chap was lugging around a car battery to as power, which seemed a little over kill to me for half a dozen hives.

What, more portable, power supplies do people use here?

A sports battery designed for caravanner

 

[dickndoris]

As said already....There is hardly a reaction to sublimating OA. The odd bee that was really close might pop out all white then back in again if you dont pop a wee bit of sponge in the entrance for a few mins. You get very little if any casualty's unlike the dribbler. What you do get is dead mites and a very good idea if you need to do a second and third or even 4 th dose depending if your working on 4 or 5 day periods bearing in mind Still lots of brood due to the mild weather. Having done both 3x5 day and 4x4 days im getting better results with the 4x4. Its just what suits me sir Not in a tight cluster seems best as said already.

A good power source is a small generator or suitcase generator. They are very cheap on fleabay or gumtree and if 12v is needed there is often a 12v outlet which is what the varrox uses. Having used the varrox and now the sublimox I was wondering why I just didnt get the sublimox to start. Cant fault it in any way and so so easy and quick to use. Runs on 240v but only 300w so not power hungry. It might even pay for itself in the first year! Certainly in the second as you should never need any other varroa control. The dribble is crude. Very very crude with the bees injesting a lot of that stuff and even feeding the queen with it. The dribble will never ever be in my apiary again. EVER!

Just my personal experiences on what works for me and more importantly, my bee's!

 

[dickbowyer]

Varrox instructions

1. Appliance
The VARROX®-Vaporiser consists of a heater, a metallicsupport
and 3 m of lead with 2 battery-clips. It has an
output of 150 W. The power source can be an accumulator
(car battery, 12 volt, 12 ampere, capacity > 40 Ah).
2. Mode of action
Oxalic acid is added to the pan, then the appliance is
inserted through the entrance of the hive. As a result of
the heating action of the pan, the oxalic acid liquefies
and vaporises. Oxalic acid vapour fills the hive and all the
bees and surfaces are then covered with a very thin layer
of oxalic acid crystals. These fine crystals are tolerated
well by the bees, but have a deadly effect on varroa mites.
3. Treatment
3.1 Time
The use of the VARROX®-Vaporiser is particularly suitable
for the follow up treatment in broodless colonies (see
5. Concept of control).
The treatment should not be made during heavy bee flight.
The temperature should not be below + 4 °C. Especially
in honeydew areas the last cleansing flight should not
date back more than four weeks. A cleansing flight should
then be awaited.
3.2 Dosage
*One spoon filled loose and without pressing, corresponds to
one gram Oxalic acid-dihydrate. Each VARROX®-Vaporiser
is supplied with a measuring spoon.
3.3 Placing the VARROX®-Vaporiser
The appropriate amount of oxalic acid-dihydrate is placed
into the VARROX®-Vaporiser. Afterwards, the appliance
is inserted through the entrance of the hive right below
the cluster of the bees until the metallic support is fully
inside. It must not be used at close range of wax or bees
(minimum distance 2 cm).
If the insertion through the entrance is not possible because
of the construction of the hive, use the opening of the
diagnosis drawer where possible.
Attention: The VARROX®-Vaporiser reaches temperatures
of up to 400°C. It can create patches of heat on the hive
bottom and frames if used for too long or too close to
the hive. This can be avoided by using a sheet metal or
wooden board below the pan.
Caution with synthetic hives and plastified varroa
screens: With hives or varroa screens made of synthetic
material, an isolation platter (minimum 4 mm thick) must
be put under the appliance.
Hint: Depending on the height of the entrance and the
bottom of the hive, we recommend that the VARROX®-
Vaporiser is fitted in evenly by bending down both sides
of the metallic support a few millimetres. The distance
between the bottom of the hive and the heating element
can be increased and the source of the heat is taken off
the bottom.
3.4 Sealing up the hive
Seal the whole entrance (or diagnosis drawer) around the
handle of the VARROX®-Vaporiser using strips of foam or
cloth. Open floors or other openings should be shut tightly
over the whole surface.
3.5 Duration of the treatment
After the hive is sealed up, the vaporiser should be connected
to a car battery (12 V) for 21/2 minutes.
One of the battery-clips of the lead can be constantly connected
with the source of power using the contact of the
second clip to switch the appliance on and off. It makes
no difference which clip is connected to the plus-terminal
- the function of the heating is not reduced.
After disconnecting the VARROX®-Vaporiser, wait for 2
minutes before the appliance is pulled out, so that the
oxalic acid-vapour can settle down. Once removed, ensure
that the entrance of the hive is shut tightly again and
left shut for another 10 minutes.
After taking out the VARROX®-Vaporiser, it should be
cooled in a bucket of water, so that with the next use, no
vaporisation begins before the appliance is inserted into
the hive.
4. Oxalic acid-dihydrate (Oxalic acid-crystals)
Oxalic acid is an unhealthy, toxic and corrosive substance.
When filling the VARROX®-Vaporiser and during the treatment,
it is absolutely necessary to wear protective glasses,
a protective mask FFP3, gloves and long-sleeved clothes.
4.1 Purchase of oxalic acid-dihydrate
For the treatment, oxalic acid-dihydrate (C2H2O4 x 2
H2O) CAS-No. 6153-56-6, EG-No. 205-634-3 has to
be used.
Normally available in pharmacies.
4.2 Purchase of oxalic acid-dihydrate/Handling of
oxalic acid
Oxalic acid can cause damage to health with both skin
contact and if swallowed. Avoid contact with eyes and
skin. Vapours and dusts of the oxalic acid should not be
inhaled. Keep oxalic acid out of the reach of children.
Oxalic acid must be stored in its original container (with
law-concurring labelling) in a safe place. In the case of
eye contact, immediately wash the acid out with water. If
ingested immediately go to a doctor.

 

[midnight sun]

Hi all

Just getting ready to try my first attempt at OA sublimation, and just had a quick thought about the best conditions to do it in. I know ideally it'll be cold to encourage clustering, but is it alright to do it whilst it's raining (which seems to be pretty much every time I'm at home) or do I need to wait for a clear period before carrying it out?

Thanks

Dickbowyer has just posted the instructions for AO vaporising.
You should have got these instructions with your kit. Read them over and over and rehearse the procedure in your mind till you are sure of the routine, then just go for it.
Make sure you have your suit on, gloves (as the acid is unkind to skin) and your mask. Don't take stupid risks with your lungs.
Expect the bees to 'roar' a bit at first, but that will help disperse the acid vapour as they beat their wings. Your entrance will be blocked in any case for the treatment so no bees come hurtling out. (Varroa board or similar in and pack for leaks). Check for a decent seal beforehand. (Some wisps of vapour will escape, but that's ok). When you open up again later (roughly 12 mins later) the odd bee may come out for a cough! (Not really, it doesn't seem to bother them that much).
Just don't get in a flap and just keep your eye on the timer. (not that critical to be second by second perfect anyway).
Hivemaker gives some excellent advice on this and the frequency of use. Read that a few times as well. If necessary makes some notes from his postings.
Add a bit of confidence and the job is done!
Good Luck

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

As said already....There is hardly a reaction to sublimating OA. The odd bee that was really close might pop out all white then back in again if you dont pop a wee bit of sponge in the entrance for a few mins. You get very little if any casualty's unlike the dribbler. What you do get is dead mites and a very good idea if you need to do a second and third or even 4 th dose depending if your working on 4 or 5 day periods bearing in mind Still lots of brood due to the mild weather. Having done both 3x5 day and 4x4 days im getting better results with the 4x4. Its just what suits me sir Not in a tight cluster seems best as said already.

A good power source is a small generator or suitcase generator. They are very cheap on fleabay or gumtree and if 12v is needed there is often a 12v outlet which is what the varrox uses. Having used the varrox and now the sublimox I was wondering why I just didnt get the sublimox to start. Cant fault it in any way and so so easy and quick to use. Runs on 240v but only 300w so not power hungry. It might even pay for itself in the first year! Certainly in the second as you should never need any other varroa control. The dribble is crude. Very very crude with the bees injesting a lot of that stuff and even feeding the queen with it. The dribble will never ever be in my apiary again. EVER!

Just my personal experiences on what works for me and more importantly, my bee's!

I agree. Trickling is for trout. I know it's supposed to be an expensive hobby, but I can't justify a Sublimox. My Varrox is fine though. I regret farting around with thymol and its brood beaks/mild queen risk; the HM routine next year for sure. And thank goodness I never went near that MAQS.

 

[Arfermo]

Motorcycle battery for my first attempt.

That is what I use. But then I don't have hundreds of hives.

 

[Arfermo]

So in your hives any benefit/advantage there may be of not opening them up in mid winter to treat is lost, as you open all of them anyway, yes.

Point taken - still prefer to quickly give them some. Takes a second or two so minor disturbance to cluster and practically no heat loss from within the cluster either!!!! Problem or nitpicking?

 

[alanf]

What, more portable, power supplies do people use here?

The sort of box sold as a "jump starter" to aid a car starting with a weak battery. Actually, it's the box which is a handy carrier for a 20Ah lead acid gel battery with heavy leads, rotary switch, volt meter and light. Replace the original battery which won't last long with a leisure battery designed for golf carts or wheelchairs, use a better charger, add a varrox and you're mobile for more than 20 hives in a batch.