Cold storing honey frames

[Curly green finger's]

Morning I have two and a half supers being stored at 8c they are majority capped honey frames from late summer which I didn't get around to extracting.
I was wondering some of the frames aren't fully capped and I have my concerns the uncapped will ferment in the comb looking at them there is heather mixed honey which hasn't been capped.
Should I scrap back to the mid rib the cells that are uncapped and throw away the pertential fermented honey? and keep the capped honey frames for extracting and possible home use.
Thoughts pls.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Are they fermenting?
I've eaten a whole lot of soft set that started fermenting....It was fine
If those were my frames I would warm them up, extract all the honey and put it in the freezer to use at home

 

[Curly green finger's]

Are they fermenting?
I've eaten a whole lot of soft set that started fermenting....It was fine
If those were my frames I would warm them up, extract all the honey and put it in the freezer to use at home

The capped honey is still runny ish the uncapped cells taste OK a slight bubbling which is the Heather honey, I will warm them and extract them in the plastic extractor, I don't think some of the frames will spin out because of the heather.

 

[Into the lions den]

Read the headline and thought that it was referring to another practice altogether...honey is frequently cold stored, but at serious sub zero temperatures. It stops crystallisation dead and kills all stages of wax moth.

It is the way comb honey is kept perfect over a long period, even several years. Deep freeze it in sealed bags (prevents condensation when thawing out).

Heather is mentioned and we have several tonnes of combs for cutting in store at -28C right now and it responds perfectly well to freezing for protracted periods.

However...the temp involved in OP is merely chilling.....at 8C crystallisation and hygroscopic activity will continue and the honey will deteriorate.

 

[elainemary]

I have a couple of part filled supers in my shed too, stored similar type of temperature, not finished / capped honey, but not watery nectar either. Still looks and smells ok so I thought I would 'feed' back to the bees later in March. I'm sure I've read some time ago that @ericbeaumont or was it @enrico has done this before? Can anyone advise / any reason why not to feed back to the colony it came from, by simply adding the super above the colony?

 

[enrico]

I have a couple of part filled supers in my shed too, stored similar type of temperature, not finished / capped honey, but not watery nectar either. Still looks and smells ok so I thought I would 'feed' back to the bees later in March. I'm sure I've read some time ago that @ericbeaumont or was it @enrico has done this before? Can anyone advise / any reason why not to feed back to the colony it came from, by simply adding the super above the colony?

Wasn't me. I try and store my frames dry. If there is any small amount of fermented honey I don't worry about it. I tend to extract all honey and feed back to the bees any with highwater content. Or use it for cooking. I know JBM doesn't worry about fermented honey going back to bees though!.....pass the buck!

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I know JBM doesn't worry about fermented honey going back to bees though!.....pass the buck!

I wouldn't be so daft as to keep it in the shed over winter, then try and give it back to the bees.
there's a difference between storing frames wet after extraction where the remaining few drops may ferment and storing frames full of uncapped honey instead of feeding it straight back to the bees

 

[ericbeaumont]

I've eaten a whole lot of soft set that started fermenting

I've sold a whole lot that started fermenting; can't get hold of enough...

adding the super above the colony?

Don't reckon that above will work, esp. as spring nectar is likely to be coming in.

Try this: block the entrance, put the supers on the floor, put on a thick sheet of 450mm sq. plastic sheet with a pencil hole in the middle, add an upper entrance, put back brood box, wait two weeks or so.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/clearcombstores.html

 

[Curly green finger's]

Thanks @ ericbeaumont a sensible constructive reply cheers

 

[Erichalfbee]

I've sold a whole lot that started fermenting; can't get hold of enough...

Really? Surely it's easy enough to make some?

 

[ericbeaumont]

Really? Surely it's easy enough to make some?

Just about trained customers to expect it occasionally!

Other factor: I don't want to add another process to a simple product, and I don't want another job.

 

[enrico]

I wouldn't be so daft as to keep it in the shed over winter, then try and give it back to the bees.
there's a difference between storing frames wet after extraction where the remaining few drops may ferment and storing frames full of uncapped honey instead of feeding it straight back to the bees

Oh! Just testing!

 

[Erichalfbee]

Thanks @ ericbeaumont a sensible constructive reply cheers

This is the beginners section. We expect sensible answers.

 

[Mint Bee]

This is the beginners section. We expect sensible answers.

so, should we really be encouraging beginners to sell fermenting honey?

With 75 hives, does CGF counts as a beginner anymore? should be in the general discussion.

 

[elainemary]

I've sold a whole lot that started fermenting; can't get hold of enough...


Don't reckon that above will work, esp. as spring nectar is likely to be coming in.

Try this: block the entrance, put the supers on the floor, put on a thick sheet of 450mm sq. plastic sheet with a pencil hole in the middle, add an upper entrance, put back brood box, wait two weeks or so.

http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/clearcombstores.html

Thanks, our spring nectar flow doesn’t start til May, so thought they might take down. Def not fermenting.

At the time I’d nadired a full super beneath them in the early autumn, the brood nest was full of brood and stores and they had collected about a 1/3rd of another super, so decided to take off as they didn’t need the stores for winter but not capped. Didn’t want to leave as they had not taken down by end October. Will try what you’ve suggested.

 

[elainemary]

Wasn't me. I try and store my frames dry. If there is any small amount of fermented honey I don't worry about it. I tend to extract all honey and feed back to the bees any with highwater content. Or use it for cooking. I know JBM doesn't worry about fermented honey going back to bees though!.....pass the buck!

Ok thanks

 

[Erichalfbee]

so, should we really be encouraging beginners to sell fermenting honey?

With 75 hives, does CGF counts as a beginner anymore? should be in the general discussion.

Of course not and I didn't suggest it. I was simply agreeing with Curly
No he doesn't but what to do with a part capped super is a beginner's question?
I'm sure Curly was just starting a discussion which is always welcome when the forum is quiet. It's something beginners would benefit from, don't you think?

 

[Curly green finger's]

so, should we really be encouraging beginners to sell fermenting honey?

With 75 hives, does CGF counts as a beginner anymore? should be in the general discussion.

Aye it got moved, but a beginners question?

 

[Mint Bee]

Of course not and I didn't suggest it. I was simply agreeing with Curly
No he doesn't but what to do with a part capped super is a beginner's question?
I'm sure Curly was just starting a discussion which is always welcome when the forum is quiet. It's something beginners would benefit from, don't you think?

Dani, it was my reply to your suggestion we expect sensible answers here, after comments by Eric about selling fermenting honey to customers. Fermenting honey is likely to have more than 20% moisture so does not meet requirements of current honey regulations for sale. not good advice for beginners.

Fair comment Mark. Personally as the frames are mostly capped, I'd just keep them at 8C and use them in your Nucs later on. Anything else seems a lot of effort for limited gain

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

but a beginners question?

definitely