Clearing Supers

[Beedogg]

I've just extracted 9 frames of more or less fully capped honey. Delighted, but it's clear that I need to improve the means by which I clear the supers of bees.
On this occasion, I put the frames into a single spare super and carried them away from the hives for clearing. Then, I used Bee Quick (smells like marzipan) and a brush to clear the bees. It was all a bit laborious and I ended up with a lot of somewhat confused bees loitering around where I'd cleared them. I'm also conscious that I was only clearing one super: what if I was trying to clear 3 or more?

So, first question: where is the best place to clear the supers? At the hives? Away from the hives?
Secondly: what's the best way of clearing multiple supers? Pile them up and clear them all at the same time? Or clear them one at a time?

Any advice gratefully received.

 

[Wilco]

Have a look through this thread:

Buy or make a bee escape?

Essentially, rhombus escape attached to a board. Works well.

 

[Erichalfbee]

You need a rhombus board. You can buy them or make them. I make mine using rhombus escapes cut up and put in the corners of a crownboard with a deep eke to take the cleared bees

 

[Erichalfbee]

I’ve cleared three at a time with these overnight. Come back in the morning and the supers are clear. Put the clearer board at the front of the hive for the bees to climb into or a sharp tap to dislodge them all into the hive.
If there are a lot of bees you need to give them somewhere to go. I often just put an empty drawn super under the ones I’m clearing if there is still a nectar income.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Rhombus board, easy to make and clears three or four supers of bees totally overnight.I just buy a second quality Apiguard eke from Maisies in the sales (cheaper than buying a length of 2x1" at the local merchants, piece if 5mm ply or similar, I cut my rhombi in half and fix them in opposite corners - Just remove the supers to be cleared, place the clearer board in place on top of the rest of the hive, replace the supers on top, come back the day after

 

[JamezF]

For just one super you could put a spare super on top of something so the bees can't get in from the bottom (a solid crown board, perhaps) and cover the top with a cloth. Open the hive up and remove the super frames one at a time, shaking/brushing off all the bees back into the hive and then put the frame in the spare super, covering it up again. Repeat until all the frames are moved. Once the hive is closed up, take the spare super away.

Simple small numbers of frames, but the rhombus escape is definitely way easier for multiple supers or hives.

James

 

[Beegarden]

For just one super you could put a spare super on top of something so the bees can't get in from the bottom (a solid crown board, perhaps) and cover the top with a cloth. Open the hive up and remove the super frames one at a time, shaking/brushing off all the bees back into the hive and then put the frame in the spare super, covering it up again. Repeat until all the frames are moved. Once the hive is closed up, take the spare super away.

Simple small numbers of frames, but the rhombus escape is definitely way easier for multiple supers or hives.

James

That's the way I do it, James, as I only have two hives (well, three currently). The spare hive has to be covered properly or the little dears find their way in. I also place it out of their pathway, several yards away. Once full, I take the super indoors and start on the next one.

Regarding using a Rhombus board, I was told by a local master beekeeper that he won't use that in the Spring, as it allows the OSR honey to cool down and start solidifying. He also removes the supers first thing in the morning, when ready, so that they haven't had enough time to add any more new, unripe nectar.

By the way, I have found that the brushes from Thornes irritate the bees, as some get caught in it. I prefer large feathers or a handful of grass.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Regarding using a Rhombus board, I was told by a local master beekeeper that he won't use that in the Spring, as it allows the OSR honey to cool down and start solidifying. He also removes the supers first thing in the morning, when ready, so that they haven't had enough time to add any more new, unripe nectar

Oh goodness - another 'master' beekeeper to amuse us with his nuggets of 'knowledge'

 

[Beegarden]

And your point? I was only trying to give advice to a newbie, slightly newer than myself.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Point is simple - why bandy the term 'master' beekeeper around as if it meant anything of import,

 

[BugsInABox]

And your point? I was only trying to give advice to a newbie, slightly newer than myself.

There is a view here that 'master beekeeper' means not much more than the queen-bee label this forum awards after multiple posts. Posters mentioning this qualification (as a way of lending their advice credibility) tend to get shot down - dont worry about it. Interestingly I bet the advice your local exam-passer gave is not on any sylablus; seems he knows plenty with or without the certificate.
Neil

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

There is a view here that 'master beekeeper' means not much more than the queen-bee label this forum awards after multiple posts

exactly - neither mean much at all

 

[Beegarden]

Therre is view here that master beekeper means not much more than the queen-bee label awarded here after multiple posts. Posters mentioning this qualification (as away of lending their advice credibility) tend to get shot down - dont worry about it. Interestingly I bet the advice your local exam-passer gave is not on any sylablus, seems he knows plenty with or without the certificate.
Neil

Thank you, Neil - point taken. It is not always easy picking my way through the 'unmentionables.' The guy in question must be in his eighties and has had an apiary and beekeeping business for decades. Though he is often very laid back, he is very gentle and always free with advice. Thank you for your gently reminder, Neil.

 

[drex]

When I get OSR honey, I use rhombus boards. Bees clear in a few hours and honey does not crystallise in that time.

 

[JamezF]

By the way, I have found that the brushes from Thornes irritate the bees, as some get caught in it. I prefer large feathers or a handful of grass.

I've been told that cock pheasant tail feathers are good for this, but for the last few years we've not had them invade the garden at an appropriate time of year so I've not had the chance to try as yet.

James

 

[BeeGiner]

If you only have a few frames to extract. Take the fully capped frames out of the super, vigorously shake the bees off (then brush off the last few), extract the honey and put the frames back.

 

[BeeGiner]

I.e. shake them off back into the hive.

 

[Martimart]

I look through the supers and remove what frames I’m extracting into another super frame and use a clearer board to take the bees away from just the super or supers I’m extracting. Got 2 hives so not too much of a faff.