Bees chucking out brood?

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Just spotted this thread. A lot of round the houses stuff but not much attention paid to Finman's first post.
99% certain you have a drone layer and that is the root cause of your issues.
I think the technical term is 'gubbed' (probably).

Even attempting to save it is less effective than just taking the loss on the chin and make a fresh one up from good stock in spring/summer.

(Not to be read into that that I always take my own advice............I have wasted countless time and money feeling sorry for dinks and attempting to salvage something. I am a slow learner.)
Thank you Murray. I'm resigned to losing this one and will see what's there in the spring. Won't be wasting any more time on them other than to maybe pull a frame to see what's what on a warm day before I decide to give any fondant or not.
 
What all?
I think he means that no matter how long we’ve been keeping bees it’s a good idea that we know what does and doesn’t work early on in our journey.
I must admit that I found out very quickly that Apistan doesn’t work.
I used Apilife for the first season then went on to OAV
 
I think he means that no matter how long we’ve been keeping bees it’s a good idea that we know what does and doesn’t work early on in our journey.
I must admit that I found out very quickly that Apistan doesn’t work.
I used Apilife for the first season then went on to OAV

It is true that it is easy to look from internet, that does apistan resistan mites exist.

As welI I wonder Oliwer, when he doupted that does thymol work in the UK. After 20 years usage.
 
Finny,

I used apigaurd. It clearly did not work to the claimed efficacy. Reports from the internet showed up some serious misgivings with both sealed packs and the bulk supply. After getting what was clearly a lower kill-rate than the adverising claimed, I read the testing regime (the small print🙂) which clearly demonstrated (to me) that use in the UK was unlikely to achieve the advertised efficacy claims by the manufacturer.

Thymol was very good as a treatment but required a little more thought than most gave it. At the time I was running plus or minus twenty colonies. Selecting the correct dosage for an efficient varroa cull without killing the colony required rather more attention than the ‘average’ beekeeper would be capable of administering.

One has to remember that, where averages are concerned, there are usually as many either side of that level.
 
I think he means that no matter how long we’ve been keeping bees it’s a good idea that we know what does and doesn’t work early on in our journey.
I must admit that I found out very quickly that Apistan doesn’t work.
I used Apilife for the first season then went on to OAV
I used Bayvarol in my first year. It worked fine but I didn't use it the following year as I had found out about resistance and didn't want to take any chances.

Tried Apilife Var once in recent years but gave up on that too. It did work but the bees propolised the biscuits into a messy gunk. :(
 
Tried Apilife Var once in recent years but gave up on that too. It did work but the bees propolised the biscuits into a messy gunk. :(
My bees all bearded out the front for 24 hours. Didn’t know what to do. Talk about panic!
I did try MAQS once as well. Lost two queens.
 
I’ve used Abelo OA strips in all my hives last autumn with a January vape. Looking good so far with virtually no varroa evident. Was uncertain about the OA strips (much cheaper than Apivar).
Do let us know how the colonies are in the spring. The jury is out on the efficacy of these strips. They certainly didn't work for me
 
used Abelo OA strips in all my hives last autumn

A good case of ‘putting all your eggs in one basket’, IMO.
 

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