Basic supplies

[Barbie bee]

I’ve had my local BBKA newsletter through and their new price list. I’ve often purchased from them however there is a supplier who is not much further away who is cheaper by far on just about all components need, frames, foundation etc.
My question is this, do people support their BBKA group or buy the best market deal? As a newbie it is good to know where.
My gut feeling is to go with the cheapest ones and support a small buisness

 

[Ian123]

For general supplies like boxes and frames you’ll find it hard to beat the main suppliers sales. Some of the smaller suppliers even purchase these second items and sell on as do many associations.

 

[user 819]

I tend to use Abelo or Simon the beekeeper.

 

[Nannysbees]

We shop around, one mistake was to buy second grade which hasn't been successful so wouldn't recommend doing that .

 

[E&MBees]

Shopping around is a good idea and can save you a fair bit of money. Local BKA’s are handy for heavy bulky items such as cans of invert. They buy by the pallet load so save you having to pay delivery.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

We shop around, one mistake was to buy second grade

Why? second quality doesn't mean it's inferior, it's just a way now to describe boxes made with UK produced sustainable timber or frames with a slightly more relaxed quality control and a not so great finish. I have bought nothing but 'second quality' for years I have not rejected or had to 'fix' one second quality hive part and the amount of reject frames (out of thousands I have made up) is still in the single figures

 

[drdrday]

I wait until the sales each year, then buy seconds, usually from Maisemore. Quality is good and prices are great. Just need to be organised enough to wait for the sales.
There is a guy in my LBKA who sells stuff but it's cheaper and easier to use the sales.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

My question is this, do people support their BBKA group or buy the best market deal?

Go for the best deal

 

[Nannysbees]

Why? second quality doesn't mean it's inferior, it's just a way now to describe boxes made with UK produced sustainable timber or frames with a slightly more relaxed quality control and a not so great finish. I have bought nothing but 'second quality' for years I have not rejected or had to 'fix' one second quality hive part and the amount of reject frames (out of thousands I have made up) is still in the single figures

One brood box was warped, lots of knots which split when we put the nails in. The interlocking joints needed work as they didn't fit

 

[Erichalfbee]

I always buy seconds. Never had a problem

 

[Erichalfbee]

One brood box was warped, lots of knots which split when we put the nails in. The interlocking joints needed work as they didn't fit

Who from?

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

One brood box was warped, lots of knots which split when we put the nails in. The interlocking joints needed work as they didn't fit

you were very unlucky then - but even with second quality kit, if you had contacted the supplier they would have replaced it.
Another reason I suppose for not using nails.

 

[Patrick1]

Seconds are a good buy, Western red cedar prices are going through the roof so the earlier you can buy the better, if the knots are loose send them back, the best ones come pre drilled so no fuss when nailing, English cedar has more knots generally and the wood doesn’t machine so well but the product is a cheaper one. UK made is another plus, the Chinese ones are usaly laminated thin strips.

Pine is the best priced, again look for the company that pre drills the nail holes, it saves a lot of misery and fingers.

 

[Ian123]

Currently a National brood from a main suppliers is £56.00 seconds are 18inc metal runners, it really is a no brainier. I think I’ve only ever had 1 side bar a couldn’t use, and yes if you have a knot in an area that needs a screw or nail simply pre drill. Buy them only from the suppliers not second parties.!!! Do not store flat for long periods but make them up when timber is wet if possible, the same for frames. I would also use a stain/preservative. Not sure who Patrick means but I don’t know any of the main suppliers that pre drill for you. Do the above and you’ll prevent any issues with seconds.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

trouble with pre drilling is, most of the holes are in the wrong place - no point driving a nail into end grain, it ain't going to hold for long, it also leaves the nails showing on the face of the boxes. I prefer to put my nails/screws down through the top

 

[rolande]

Western red cedar prices are going through the roof

I noticed this last week when looking at modified dadant broods, OK, wide boards and perhaps a bit of a non standard item these days, but the price for a flat pack brood has jumped from about £65 in this years spring catalogue to £77 online now. Sign of things to come?

 

[Amari]

trouble with pre drilling is, most of the holes are in the wrong place - no point driving a nail into end grain, it ain't going to hold for long, it also leaves the nails showing on the face of the boxes. I prefer to put my nails/screws down through the topView attachment 28657View attachment 28658View attachment 28659View attachment 28660View attachment 28661

trouble with pre drilling is, most of the holes are in the wrong place - no point driving a nail into end grain, it ain't going to hold for long, it also leaves the nails showing on the face of the boxes. I prefer to put my nails/screws down through the topView attachment 28657View attachment 28658View attachment 28659View attachment 28660View attachment 28661

I glue then screw

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I glue then screw

Mine are all glued, still don't like screwing/nailing into endgrain

 

[Newbeeneil]

Currently a National brood from a main suppliers is £56.00 seconds are 18inc metal runners, it really is a no brainier. I think I’ve only ever had 1 side bar a couldn’t use, and yes if you have a knot in an area that needs a screw or nail simply pre drill. Buy them only from the suppliers not second parties.!!! Do not store flat for long periods but make them up when timber is wet if possible, the same for frames. I would also use a stain/preservative. Not sure who Patrick means but I don’t know any of the main suppliers that pre drill for you. Do the above and you’ll prevent any issues with seconds.

Patrick means Bee Equipment!

 

[ldwgs]

I’ve had my local BBKA newsletter through and their new price list. I’ve often purchased from them however there is a supplier who is not much further away who is cheaper by far on just about all components need, frames, foundation etc.
My question is this, do people support their BBKA group or buy the best market deal? As a newbie it is good to know where.
My gut feeling is to go with the cheapest ones and support a small buisness

Buy local if the equipment suits you