Artificial Swarm

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Polyanwood

Queen Bee
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
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Location
London
Hive Type
14x12
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How do you know it is time to do your artifical swarm?
 
Finman is of course correct.

However that is assuming you are letting the colony dictate to you. I'd prefer to do it myself when I was ready for it.

It's so much more relaxed when you have the kit all sorted out and can take your time.

However it all depends on FINDING the Q!!!

PH
 
. I'd prefer to do it myself when I was ready for it.

???????? Why ?

If colony has no intention to swarm, I see no reason to disturb its life. Result is same as swarming. The colony looses its ability to get yield.

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Two reasons.

For a beginner it is I think safer to do the AS whether the colony has ambitions or not. As beginners often miss that wee cell by the side bar it is safer to do the AS.

2nd, Beginners usually want increase and in any case SHOULD have two colonies so they can have a test frame.

PH
 
Two reasons.

2nd, Beginners usually want increase and in any case SHOULD have two colonies so they can have a test frame.

PH

He looses the yield.

It is better take first the yiled and devide the hive in late summer.

1)= the yield will vanish with that trick.


What about next year? same trick? And next...
 
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To beginners it is essential to follow every week, how normal hive developes. Without this knowledge he will never learn.

When queen cells appear, he makes the false swarm. To take away queen cell is a mistake.

To find a queen, is necessary too . But you need not find it every time when you scheck the hive.

In forums I see too much advices, how to destroy year's yield.
 
I agree Finman but I do think that beginners are better not losing a swarm the first year or two and learn how to work the colony and get to understand what is normal. Getting honey is better left until later. If they get a few kilos they are happy enough I think. Chasing crops is better done in year two or three.

PH
 
I assume by what is being said we are talking about A S the colony into another hive on a seperate stand.So the losing yield bit,why not do it all under one roof,not much loss then,hive becomes much stronger,bigger yield.
 
Can you explain the method Hivemaker,whats it called?
 
I agree Finman but I do think that beginners are better not losing a swarm the first year or two and learn how to work the colony and get to understand what is normal. Getting honey is better left until later. If they get a few kilos they are happy enough I think. Chasing crops is better done in year two or three.

PH

Yuo mean Poly that artifcial swarm's purpose is "how to avoid getting yield".

To me it is: "How to stop foragers to escape..."

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Hmm... finding the queen in the hive of evil always a challenge... but let's leave that for now

More related questions on artificial swarm then...

QUESTION 1.
so all my hives are in my garden... but lots of us have all our colonies in only one apiary.... Is it likely they will all try to swarm at the same time? (if so I will need 2 hives per colony won't I?)

QUESTION 2.
It is true, that as a beginner it is very easy to miss a queen cell, so the idea of doing AS to avoid losing most of you foragers is attractive. On the other hand, Finman's advice to try to maximise honey production is attractive too.

Can you have the best of both worlds? i.e. do AS and make them think they have swarmed and then reunite them so that you still have loads of foragers for you main flow. Why not?
 
The purpose of the AS is to avoid losing the swarm and in the process obtain a new q for the colony.

There are many methods but I not sure I want to do it under the one roof. Saves on kit of course but that is not always a good thing.

I was never bothered about losing some blossom honey Finman as my main target was always Heather. And with the AS I was effectively uniting two good colonies to make one for the heather. And of course the stronger on the heather the better as the death rate is high with so many spiders to contend with.

PH
 
My main aim is to get as much honey as possible,from early spring to heather time,with bee's as strong as possible,and getting them requeened while keeping them together as soon as possible. hence all under one roof,and really simple and effective. more later.
 
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I have 2-2,5 months yield season. I try my hives ready to hit on flowers fields from dandelion to heather.

The worst enemy is swarming. Swarming mix hive's life when it should raise maximum brood for main yield.

Fastest way clear the mesh out is to make false swarm.
As long as hive have not intention to swarm, I add strores and hope good weathers.
 
This is our difference Finman your climate and season are quite different to here int he UK, and even here there are major differences in season length.

My friend in Shetland for example is not the same as my friend in Brighton, some 750 miles to his south.

PH
 
This is our difference Finman your climate
PH

Heh heh. Nice to know that! I have visited in England 6 times and drived car there about 30 days.

You old farts on your pecucilar island. Its is only 30 km to European continent. :)

If I had your season and your rape fields I would take 600 lbs honey per hive.

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You wouldn't you know... our weather is a bit different. It rains and that kees the crops down as the bees miss out on day after day of flowering...
 
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What I have discussed with Hivemaker, mine and his nursing system is very same.

But you have heavy rainfall there and a big variation.
Our annual rainfall is 600-700 mm.

es4_avg_rainfall.gif
 
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