Apiguard on poly hives

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If you do need to treat why not wait until January and use oxalic acid?

Disagree, just about entirely, with that.

I want to be a sure as I can, that the winter bees are not infrected with all sorts of pathogens, by varroa feeding on them while pupating. I consider the end of honey season the most important treatment for varroa (some won't, of course).

Healthy bees going into winter when they are needing to survive until spring is a very important priority/consideration for me.

:iagree: It may be OK for the more experienced beeks to do that- but I know for a fact that I have had false negatives on drone brood due, I'm sure, to operator error.

I intend to use thymol as soon as the supers are off to give the bees the best chance going into winter, then OA in winter as a mopping-up exercise.

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I can confirm that so long as its not on plastic frames or touches the poly there is no problem.
 
I can confirm that so long as its not on plastic frames or touches the poly there is no problem.

What happens if the bee's move it though that was my initial thoughts...
 
You can lay a bit of polythene sheet about 6 inches square over the top bars and then spread the Apiguard gunk thinly over it. This is what I did when I had Swienty LS hives and used Apiguard. The recommended gap above the Apiguard tray is to get the maximum effect from the treatment but giving them an empty super is asking for it be filled with wild comb, especially if you have recently removed supers of honey. Been there done that and have published the pictures here before of the result.

I now use Apilife-Var which the manufacturers say does not need an extra gap above it. However, you must be careful when using it with poly hives as some of the essential oils in it will melt the poly if it come into contact with it. It is more or less the same stuff as Apiguard (thymol) but has some other stuff in it but I use it mostly because it is easier to use with poly hives as you don't need to use an eke or empty super. You can use bits of the foil packet to keep it clear of plastic frames and if you use a sheet of poly under the roof as I do, the roof will not be damaged either.
 
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if you don't have clear crownboards in LS polys you can place ALV on top bars with a piece of tinfoil over the top to prevent contact with roof.
 
Hi,

I'm just about to get some apiguard for my two hives. I remember reading something about this but couldnt find the answer when searching.

I have Langstroth Poly's with top beespace, I don't have an ike and understand that the space ontop is not enough. Is it ok to put this on the top of the open mesh floor or do I need some other solution?

As my hives are only recently established from nucs, i'm thinking more near the end of august as long as the temp is above 15o.....

Thanks,
Chris

If you have Ashforth type feeders for the hives you can invert them to accommodate the Apiguard.
 
I have no problem using Apigard with poly hives. I do use a small eke (about 1 inch) to allow space above trays which i put straight on to frames. I have also on occassion fed at the same time without problem and with good mite control.
 
Time to get on with treating with thymol as both Hivemaker's and Apiguard rely on warm enough temperature to allow it to vapourise. Full treatment cycle for HM treatment is 6 weeks and for Apiguard is 4 weeks. Should not treat with supers on as they end up stinking of the stuff as will future honey, so we need to be getting supers off if we are going to do it.
 

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