after the artificial swarm

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Finman 

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It is better if you put old queen in new stand and they have foundations.
Mailnly old bees, which are in old stand were willing to swarm.

The second idea is that the queen continues laying for main yield. With foragers it succeed better than with home bees.

With laying queen bees draw foundations better. They need them.
 

trulli1 

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Hi Finman,

Just interested to know if you do your A/S the way you have described?

The main reason for asking is because I have read many articles that suggest you do a A/S the way TonyBloke has done, could it be a case of there are many ways to skin a cat?
 

Finman 

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"My way" I read 30 years ago from an English beekeeping book.

To keep old queen in the old hive is that you need not to find it. That was a clarification when our main beekeeing teacher recommended new hive+queen cells.

Of course, when you have a clipped queen and it is gone, you have only choice a queen cell.

I have done for tens of years

*********************

If you look MAAREC advices, there is a main system that brood and the queen are separated:• Separation of Queen from the Brood - Separation of
queen from brood, or Demareeing, is probably the most
widely used swarm control practice and is the easiest
and most successful method in use today to control
swarming.
A large number of variations exist and
almost all recent articles in the literature on swarming
utilize the same basic principle of queen and brood
separation.
The basic technique involves rearranging of the colony.
The queen is placed with 1 or 2 frames of sealed brood
in a hive body of otherwise empty comb (or foundation)
on the bottom board and then a queen excluder placed
over the single hive body. One or two supers are added....

http://maarec.psu.edu/pdfs/Swarm_Prev_Control_PM.pdf
 
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