philat98
New Bee
I am thinking of using aerated blocks to support some of my hives. I wondering how well they will perform outside? Single 3.6N Aerated Block - 100mm | Wickes.co.uk
The fact Wickes say they can be used below DPC would indicate they would be ok but I would fork out the extra 15p and opt for their standard dense block.I am thinking of using aerated blocks to support some of my hives. I wondering how well they will perform outside? Single 3.6N Aerated Block - 100mm | Wickes.co.uk
There is quite a difference in weight. 7kg as opposed to 18kg. I have had a few back problems recently and I like anything that is light.The fact Wickes say they can be used below DPC would indicate they would be ok but I would fork out the extra 15p and opt for their standard dense block.
I'd just use them. I can't see any reason not to.....There is quite a difference in weight. 7kg as opposed to 18kg. I have had a few back problems recently and I like anything that is light.
For all the price they are I'd try a fewThere is quite a difference in weight. 7kg as opposed to 18kg. I have had a few back problems recently and I like anything that is light.
Weight matters to me! These blocks have been a life saver and have worked well for some years, both in a single layer for single stands with legs and stacked in pairs or threes for timber rails for double/triple stands. I clear and level the ground, then lay them on sand with (sometimes) a little bit of cement mixed i
Thanks for your advice. I will stack them and use a rail.I should add that they break if you drop them, even on grass. So don't.
RAACI am thinking of using aerated blocks to support some of my hives. I wondering how well they will perform outside? Single 3.6N Aerated Block - 100mm | Wickes.co.uk
Most are/were made from aerated (foamed) fly ash and cement mix. They weren't intended to be used where they could suffer repeated wet/dry/freeze/thaw situations but by virtue of the trapped air had a low thermal conductivity so as an inner skin of a cavity wall they were ideal under the building regs at the time. If you can restrict water ingress to stop spalling in winter they will be ok for a while. Personally I'd use an aggregate block (Lytag) or a concrete type block. Versions of these are available with hollow centres to minimize weight. Handling aids (grabs) are available.I am thinking of using aerated blocks to support some of my hives. I wondering how well they will perform outside? Single 3.6N Aerated Block - 100mm | Wickes.co.uk
I agree; I've not had any problem with damp ingress over several years now.If you read the blurb in Wickes advert you will see that they are suitable for use below the damp proof course and in the reviews people are using them for external walls and raised beds ...and for shed bases. If they were falling apart with moisture ingress I think there would be some adverse comments. They are the same blocks used in construction of the Zest hive and he's not had issues with water ingress. Some ill-informed needless worrying I fear.
I have been using them for a couple of years now I have had no problem. I always set them on a concrete slab which I level first.I am thinking of using aerated blocks to support some of my hives. I wondering how well they will perform outside? Single 3.6N Aerated Block - 100mm | Wickes.co.uk
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