A 100% Guaranteed Queen Introduction Method.

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Little John

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I came across this method yesterday, whilst researching something completely different. It's from the pen of C.C.Miller, and you'll find it within his book 'A Thousand Answers'. What suprises me is that I've never heard anyone mention this method ... ever.

It's intended to be used when you've just received an uber-expensive queen in the post, and for when - as our American friends say - failure is NOT an option. But you certainly wouldn't want to be faffing about like this when introducing bog-standard queens.

Ok - you simply set up a Nuc Box, and install one or more capped (and preferably emerging) brood combs, along with a stores comb or two. But - NO BEES WHATSOEVER. Then place your mailing cage, as received (with attendants), into the box and wait until a dozen or so bees have emerged, and then release the queen.
The bees that have just emerged will be nurse bees, which are accepting of a new queen anyway, but in addition they will never have encountered a queen before, and will therefore accept the new queen as being their own, automatically.


Well - I think that's an inspired method, very clever, and one to be put 'on the back burner' for that one time in the future when it might just be needed.
LJ
 
Who's going to look after the brood combs?
Or are you hoping all that brood emerges before it cools down and is no more!
 
.
I make a nuc above another give that it gets heat from downstairs.
IT is 100% proof.

I have used it all my life.
 
L. J., the method or a slight variation thereof is not uncommon, at least not here. When local mongrel bees, or pure AMM bought from breeders further south, are being requeened with Buckfast or other quality queen it is used to ensure success.
 
Who's going to look after the brood combs?
Or are you hoping all that brood emerges before it cools down and is no more!

I gave you the source - if you can be arsed to read it (p.180 - "What is the best way to introduce a valuable queen?") - the answer can be found there.
LJ
 
I gave you the source - if you can be arsed to read it (p.180 - "What is the best way to introduce a valuable queen?") - the answer can be found there.
LJ

LJ's incorrect description which forgot to mention how to keep the brood warm:
Ok - you simply set up a Nuc Box, and install one or more capped (and preferably emerging) brood combs, along with a stores comb or two. But - NO BEES WHATSOEVER. Then place your mailing cage, as received (with attendants), into the box and wait until a dozen or so bees have emerged, and then release the queen.
The bees that have just emerged will be nurse bees, which are accepting of a new queen anyway, but in addition they will never have encountered a queen before, and will therefore accept the new queen as being their own, automatically.

Thanks Finman for clarifying the method:
Finman .
I make a nuc above another give that it gets heat from downstairs.
IT is 100% proof.

I have used it all my life.

CC Miller's description:

With if entirely A. safe, a very valuable queen, you want to be proceed in this way: Put two, three, or more frames of brood in an upper story over a strong colony, having a queen- excluder between the two stories. In about eight days all the brood will be sealed. Now lift the upper story, take away, the ex- cluder, and cover the hive with wire-cloth, which will not admit the passage of a bee. Over the wire-cloth set an empty hive- body. One by one lift the frames out of the removed upper story, brushing o£f upon the ground in front of the hive all the bees from each comb, and putting the brushed combs into the empty upper story. Put your new queen into the upper story and cover up, making very sure that not a bee can get in or out. Your queen is now alone in the upper story, but will probably have company within five minutes, for young bees will be hatching out constantly from the sealed brood. Xo bee can get from one story to the other, but the heat can rise from below to keep the upper story warm. In about five days you can set this upper story on a new stand, giving it entrance for only one bee at a time. If your bees act like mine have done, and the circvtmstances are favorable, before night you will see some of the five-day-old bees entering the hive with pollen on their legs.
 
LJ's incorrect description which forgot to mention how to keep the brood warm:

I didn't 'forget' - I outlined the absurdly simple (but very clever) principle of the method, which is to introduce the queen into a bee-less environment. That is the genius of the method - imo, of course.

One expects seasoned beekeepers to use just a little common-sense. If I had posted this in the beginners sub-forum, then your criticism might be valid.

Seeing as we're playing at quotations - take for example Miller's other reference to this method, on page 276:
One time I had a valuable queen to introduce. Over a strong colony I put an empty hive, with wire-cloth between the two stories. In the empty hive I put frames of sealed brood with young bees just ready to emerge, but not a bee. I put in the queen and closed up tight, so no bee could get in or out. Five days later I gave a very small entrance, and the bees flew.

You'll note Miller doesn't labour the "heat coming up from below" issue - he doesn't need to - for that is taken as 'a given'.
LJ
 
Last edited:
L. J., the method or a slight variation thereof is not uncommon, at least not here. When local mongrel bees, or pure AMM bought from breeders further south, are being requeened with Buckfast or other :icon_204-2: queen it is used to ensure success.

:hairpull:
I used "Double screen method" when playing around with expensive bought in Carniolian queens, that the local so called colonies of buckfasts would have immediately balled on introduction.

Much simpler to breed local native bees..... only had one "balled" on introduction in past three or so seasons of quality bee breeding!

Yeghes da
 
The double screen is certainly very useful. I use it too and find it to be an excellent piece of equipment.
 

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