14"x12"

[Etton]

Whats being measured... from where to where?

 

[Tremyfro]

Whats being measured... from where to where?

The length and depth of the brood frame.

 

[GaryB]

Whats being measured... from where to where?

I could be wrong here, but I think you can combine a national brood and super together to take a 14x12 frame. That would give a much larger brood chamber, but the frames once full are much heavier, and possibly more difficult to manipulate.

 

[Brian Bush]

Whats being measured... from where to where?

Be aware Etton there are plans circulating on the net and a post on this forum that give the incorrect depth for the side of a 14X12. If you are making your own be very careful of the dimensions quoted.

 

[REDWOOD]

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=856

dimensions look good to me. 14x12 is not quite a brood and a half (brood box + super) but you can buy or make eks to convert a standard BB to a 14x12 BB.

 

[MartinL]

I could be wrong here, but I think you can combine a national brood and super together to take a 14x12 frame. That would give a much larger brood chamber, but the frames once full are much heavier, and possibly more difficult to manipulate.

You are!

But the usual suspects sell an eke to convert up.

I have nukes with add on at base too so I can modify when collecting swarms then stretch them up to 14 X 12 before moving on to full-size.

If you did put a 14 X 12 frame in a super +brood box they would extend below the frame again proving for some very interesting inspections!

 

[Tremyfro]

I have some national brood frames which the bees have extended to 'fit' the 14x12 brood chamber. Very neat too. I have only ever had one extension which needed adjustment. After the bees have used them for a while the extension becomes quite strong...otherwise you need somewhere to put it down if you can't put it back into the hive during inspections because it bend easily...ha ha. To begin with, it was often drone brood in the extensions but now I see much more worker brood in them...I suppose it depends whereabouts the frame is in the hive.

 

[MuswellMetro]

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=856

dimensions look good to me. 14x12 is not quite a brood and a half (brood box + super) but you can buy or make ekes to convert a standard BB to a 14x12 BB.

The eke is 89mm and plus a national (225mm to take 14x8 DN1) you get 304mm for a 14x12 brood

in an emergency you can use two supers (150mm each) and get a 300mm temporary brood box, the extra depth of the floor upstand is usual 20-23mm and although a 14x12 frame is proud of the bottom the 14x12 frame just extends a bit into the floor

 

[Finman]

I could be wrong here, but I think you can combine a national brood and super together to take a 14x12 frame. That would give a much larger brood chamber, but the frames once full are much heavier, and possibly more difficult to manipulate.

No reason to do that. How do you extraxt those frames or lift that box full of honey.

 

[Brian Bush]

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=856

dimensions look good to me. 14x12 is not quite a brood and a half (brood box + super) but you can buy or make eks to convert a standard BB to a 14x12 BB.

Correct Redwood this thread has the correct size. I downloaded and printed a plan from the forum a few weeks ago and there is no allowance for beespace. The box sides were exactly 12 inches converted to mm.

 

[GaryB]

No reason to do that. How do you extraxt those frames or lift that box full of honey.

You wouldn't extract as this would be a brood box only. Don't know anyone that extracts from the brood box, only supers.

 

[MuswellMetro]

Correct Redwood this thread has the correct size. I downloaded and printed a plan from the forum a few weeks ago and there is no allowance for beespace. The box sides were exactly 12 inches converted to mm.

it would do if i could add up 314mm not 304mm, sorry, corrected wording

The eke is 89mm and plus a national (225mm to take 14x8 DN1) you get 314mm for a 14x12 brood

in an emergency you can use two supers (150mm each) and get a 300mm temporary brood box, the extra depth of the floor upstand is usual 20-23mm and although a 14x12 frame is proud of the bottom the 14x12 frame just extends a bit into the floor

 

[Finman]

You wouldn't extract as this would be a brood box only. Don't know anyone that extracts from the brood box, only supers.

I extract brood boxes when bees have emerged.

I do not have excluder in hives. And bees store very much honey into brood frames. Those frames I lift up and extract them when they are full of honey.

Queen has the whole hive to lay, if it is able.

.

 

[GaryB]

I extract brood boxes when bees have energed.

I do not have excluder in hives.

.

Interesting. When do you extract the brood boxes, at the end of the season? What about leaving them stores?

 

[Finman]

Interesting. When do you extract the brood boxes, at the end of the season? What about leaving them stores?

My hives bring honey on average 60-80 kg. I extract brood frames just before feeding. I take all honey off and feed sugar on average 20 kg/hive.


Bees do not need honey during winter, but pollen is important.

My hives live with sugar 9 months.
.
I use 3 langstroth boxes for brood. In main flow lowest is filled with pollen. With that pollen the hive rear winterbees in August.
.
.

 

[MuswellMetro]

Interesting. When do you extract the brood boxes, at the end of the season? What about leaving them stores?

it is quite common for Bee Farmers to run brood boxes as supers, either national broods or commercial brood boxes, a simple swarm preventing when useing broods as supers is to swap boxes around

this summer i worked with a bee farmer who used commercial broods as a one type box system, a bit heavy if full of honey but manageable

I also know a Little man in Exmoor who uses national broods as a one type box system with no problem

 

[Finman]

.
One hive owner can do own one frame sizes and own frames, but then he gets only difficulties with that wisdom. If he wants to sell the hive, it has not much value. Who wants to buy a nuisance.

 

[Finman]

it would do if i could add up 314mm not 304mm, sorry, corrected wording

The eke is 89mm and plus a national (225mm to take 14x8 DN1) you get 314mm for a 14x12 brood

in an emergency you can use two supers (150mm each) and get a 300mm temporary brood box, the extra depth of the floor upstand is usual 20-23mm and although a 14x12 frame is proud of the bottom the 14x12 frame just extends a bit into the floor

I do not understand, why advanced beekeepers want to push one hive owners to deep troubles?
.

 

[Fusion_power]

The 14X12 referenced has frame end bars exactly 12 inches (304mm) long and a brood box that is 12.5 inches (317mm) deep. Unless my math is off, that is 1/8 inch too deep for the brood box. It won't be a problem unless a 14X12 is used as a honey super in which case, a lot of burr comb will be built between the boxes. One thing I like about the Square Modified Dadant is that the frames are 11 1/4 inches deep and the box is 11 5/8 which gives 3/8 inch bee space.

 

[Finman]

.
Box size and frame size are meant to ergonomic working of a beekeeper. The size of Langstroth has been taken from champagne box.

They are not meant to optimaze bee something. There are many kind of colonies from one size to tree size.

British frames are allready expencive. They are 2.4 fold compared to Scandinavia. Polybox prices are double. Then you aim to use such size foundations which your cannot get from UK. And finally you get 10 kg honey from a hive.