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Finish off what nature has started, Add water a strong yeast such as champagne type and you can make mead!

CB's Nucs The ones I got from you were excellent any chance of you dropping some down Essex way later this year? All the Best, O.

David Cramp - A practical Manual of Beekeeping is a very easy book to read and my top tip for a beginner. Maybe not a many pretty pictures as some others but good solid, progressive guidance from a very experienced beekeeper and encouraging. Hooper - The bible, always my first call for...

I think Pete Kembles foundation is the best I've used in nine years of beekeeping. Thick, fragrant, well formed and accurately sized.

The 14x12 is a nice size with prolific queens. I prefer a large brood box so that the bees have plenty of food for over wintering. Keeping on brood and a half is fine for one or two hives but a real pain for many more.

Give Peter at KBS a phone call. His foundation is excellent. Thicker, better sized and more fragrant than any other i've bought. And his pre waxed wick makes much better rolled candles. 01424 870 737

Talcum powder containers work well.

I've often made them from corex - the board that estate agents signs are made from. A bit of a shortage at the moment.

I've always grafted but was told by one of the BIBBA old boys to spraythe Jenter with syrup before placing it in the hive (He also set his into a cut out on a fully drawn comb), and introduce the queen a day or better 2 later. My favourite grafting tool is a very fine large handled sable brush...

I've used queen catcher clips, they are good but you still need to get her with your fingers to clip and mark her. I think a rose of thorns is probably the best bet but i've not used one. Usually use my bare hand and fingers. Regarding protective equipment - I always wear a veil as a sting...

Should do. The main thing is for moves >3ft<3miles you need to use some other intervention to get the bees to reorient themselves. Trapping them in the hive for a time, moving the orientation of the entrance and disrupting their immediate view are all forcing them to realise things have changed.

I was shown a trick of stuffing the hive entrance with grass and turning the hive the opposite direction. The bees then need to remove the grass before they can leave and seem to reorientate themselves. Works for me.

Spoke to him just this afternoon. Called me back on his mobile - 07971806670.