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I think you need to set up a 2-3 frame nuc, then when the queen is useful unite with the intended colony/split. I assume thats what you will do

:iagree:

5 days ago, walked over to the beehives, thinking bugger, thats a lot of bee's buzzing about they aren't thinking of swarming are they? got withing 5ft, thinking mmMM their a bit aggressive and Then seeing the the qeen wasp crawling across the front of a hive above the entrance...(the brain...

:iagree:

and why would they do that, if that was the case why do bee's sometimes not take down sryup? Your logic bees are a totally dumb machine that does not react to the needs of the colony, .. sryrup... must ...store little winged ingors and do nothing else. I still think the best advice is for OP...

correct me if I am wrong bit 1:1 can't be stored.. so the bees would just be making use of it.. generating warmth and drawing comb, sounds like they are just using it as fuel warmth as they have not drawn any comb. The sryup isn' the problem as there is brood in all stages and room to expand...

First I doub't you need to tranfer them straight away anyway, just remember to site the nuc where you want the the hive to be at roughly the same height as the final entrance will be.. somebody else can advise better on b urnett, I think they would work myself but have not seen how a beehaus is...

try a test of brood frame. If you think you have a hive is strong enough try moving an entire comb over complete with nursing bees (shake comb to remove older flyers/scout bees' and spray comb & nursing bees with (warm body temp) sugar water) before insertion into weaker hive

some bloke called Joseph had a swarm.. some bloke called Eric took them away. Joseph isn't happy about it, Eric doesn't give a toss

why is this an issue? everybody knows in my street I have bees in my back garden

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=16236not worthy

I moved an over wintered 6 frame nuc in to a poly hive last week, but that was because I am away from home for at least 2 weeks with work now and the nuc was already overcrowded (carnolian queen). They were moved quickly, 5mins and given both fondant and then a feeder was added with 1.125...

The HRM might be running out of space, not to worry they will draw as required. You have to remember they the bee's need to keep the brood warm and they have just been given a bigger space to heat.. it a balance of bee numbers, space, heat/weather. Keep the feed topped up, don't disturb them...

any sign of brood/eggs on the old frames? as long as the queen is laying you don't have a problem really, they will sort themselves out. Don't worry after a week maybe things often don't on the face of it look different. If there is brood its best not to distrurb them to much in the next...

Not so worried about mine but there are some continual newbies in the area who buy nucs each year for show hives in there big gardens and leave them to their fate, I want so see about keeping my lot as healthy as possible and try some experiments on the way.

before someone screams why are treating regardless is because, 1 I am experimenting. I have found there are lots of beeks in my area.. with varying bad attitudes to treatment and due to concentrations of forage in the town I believe mine are being re-infected particuarly in the early...

I have decided to use hive clean this year.. through March & early April weather dependant 3-4 inspections, therefore with 4 hives + 2 nucs why It is a mild treatment that has no effect on brood or new stores (as per datasheet waffle) it is a quick direct treatment to the bee seams in...

I have found my physical reaction to a bee sting has grown less & less over the 5 years, although I have managed to avoid being stung for 12months, I assume because I am getting better at handling them... or it could be I have been lucky:rolleyes: I understand for some old beeks the opposite...

fair point,