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Most of my hives draw queen cups in one day the queen can lay in them when drawn so if I lift the brood on the 3rd day I can see if any eggs ocupy them if they do I need to do something about it. While I have the box up I can knock the unococupied cells off. Nobody told me to do that I just...

I know we are firing multiple questions but it's how you assess a hive and its state. Most likely you have a hive that swarmed and has a virgin queen you mistook for supersedure.

Is the old queen still in the hive? Have you noticed a decrease in expansion? Do you see fresh eggs standing up? Do you see one egg in a cell or two or three? All can be indicators

Don't worry if they built cells and they have royal jelly and are occupied they are most likely good, however I don't want to alarm you but they could be no good, post a few pics. Do you have capped and uncapped worker brood? Even if they are bad cells it's likely you can save the hive with a...

Depends how you deal with it and how you check hives. Big difference in lifting a brood and going through every frame. I'm on top of my hives 100% also big diffence in one brood and three. If I was on one brood this time of the year I'd do something about it because something is wrong or I have...

Indeed beekeeping is a ballencing act and the difference between 12c and 18c is wide and even more so the difference in 18c and a consistent temperature of 20c to 26c

True its going to be a bad month for swarming this year. I've got to get in mine every three days rain or shine. They need splitting asap They will use it and draw it if it's sandwiched inbertwen a drawn super and a drawn brood but then if its warm enough to put it up top I'd start to...

If I brought a buckfast F1 and she produced aggressive workers id know she definitely wasn't F1. An F1 produces docile workers and are good to breed from

Give them a bit of smoke in the entrance 2 min before inspection, take off the roof smoke through the crownboard hole, lift the crownboard very gently while giving a puff of smoke, part each frame carefully without causing vibration. Do everything very slowly and avoid any knocks, lift the...

I'm not that 💪

Yes I'd be in a bit of a pickle if I ordered 14x12 frames for my supers

Oh sorry for honey production myself I will build a hive into three broods or more for maximum production then a few weeks before flow I trap the queen in the bottom box so she can't lay in the others and all the blanks get put in the bottom along with the queen. By the time full flow is on the...

Hatch, emerge I don't mind they mean the same to me

You take the queen out place it in a split then they will build q cells rip them down bar one and let that one hatch get mated, if you take two you can take out the divider and make a nuc with it if you want, or keep the divider in and get two more mated queens

If you look under the brood at dusk and see 8 or more frames of bees then look in the super and they cover about 8 frames or more it needs another brood because you would have four ready to hatch. But at the moment I'd put it under the full box until it warms up a little, then I'd swap it and...

I wouldnt feed sugar or thymol to a hive I'm extracting honey from. If they are strong enough to produce a surplus then I wouldnt be treating them with anything at all

I usually buy the hive alive simply because I know its good stuff, I'm not sure if the seaweed extracts help but it's a good product. I'm going to try my own mix and experiment with quantities and compare it to the hive alive

To help a hive recover slow build up for whatever reason. Everyone has the way they do things but I find it gives them a boost. That could be just my observation but unless you try different things you will never know

That depends if you want to expand or harvest honey

Someone who wants to give them some thymol as a precautionary the other option is to spray them down with it