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No, you take a look at the UK law http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/1348/pdfs/uksi_20151348_en.pdf Specifically Schedule 1 which gives "Compositional Criteria" (you will have to scroll down).

Absolute utter rubbish! http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/idlh/144627.html As little as 15g ingested can cause death by kidney failure. Lower doses will cause joint pain from calcium oxalate formation.

I don't believe there is one specified for Oxalic ... HOWEVER the Honey Regs (2015 no change) do specify an acidity limit "50 milli-equivalents acid/kg" (of honey). // Beaten to it by Thymallus!

During this year's club spring tour with the SBI, even he was surprised when it was pointed out that there was a small cast swarm sitting in the tree no more than a couple of feet from his head, while he was inspecting a colony!

Yes. That is the original idea.

You will find the product marketed under the MAQS label. For example: http://www.thorne.co.uk/health-and-feeding/maqs http://www.mannlake.co.uk/beekeeping-supplies/product/DC-630.html http://www.bees-online.co.uk/view.asp?ID=1325...

Repeat Oxalic vaporising - but while there is honey on the hive. Oxalic doesn't evaporate away like the Formic in MAQS. So this strikes me as a REALLY BAD idea, with 3 crop supers in place. But how can I convince an Oxalic vaporising enthusiast of that? Or is it OK really and you've done...

With brood frames in particular, one should properly sanitise before re-waxing and re-use, and that means more than just 'cleaning' or even steaming (let alone just using a solar melter). The NBU booklet (previously linked on this thread) explains how.

The thing about MAQS is that there is no need to wait until after the harvest. With Apiguard, you must take your harvest before treating - not so with MAQS. Hence, if you need a treatment during the honey season, MAQS provides an option. But, IMHO, its a mistake to wait until after the...

No. The bottom beespace super (directly above the QX) provides a beespace above the QX. The frame under the QX is there to then provide a beespace below the QX. So the QX isn't constantly begging to be propolised to any frames. Putting it the wrong way up gives double beespace on one side...

Eh? Are you saying that there were no capped brood cells - at all ?

And if its any consolation, Martha Kearney has also given up, for now. She ended up in hospital after a sting (last year), and is now undergoing desensitisation therapy ... but her husband's face got a nasty swelling after some stings through his veil, so she might not restart... (eh?)...

Emyr, what I said was - The wide topbars (of the type 5s) when on hoffman spacing leave an 8mm gap between the topbars. The narrow (type 4) topbar plus hoffmans gives a 12mm spacing. Using a proper beespace (8mm) between the bars "should" give rise to less comb in the wrong place, but as...

The wider top bars should make for less comb between the topbars - IF the frames are at hoffman spacing. Which indicates to me that their place is in the brood box. However, IF you run brood and a half, then it might indeed make sense to run SN5s in the half and DN5s in the deep. But the...

It looks like it might be this one,made by Willhi. Instructions PDF http://www.biopowered.co.uk/w/images/8/88/WH7016C_instructions.pdf However, it doesn't mention a buzzer! But it does mention all sorts of limits, and it might be that you are getting the alarm as you approach/hit a limit...

Sad news. Realistic though. But keeping the nuc box as a bait hive does make it sound like you'll be back!

You can 'newspaper unite' an Apidea to a bigger hive by putting the Apidea over newspaper over a hole in the coverboard - and pulling the Apidea floor open (but not completely out!) One should arrange some sort of surrounding protective eke...

Wrong way to go about things, but it sounds to me as though a serious beekeeper might have been looking for a (relatively) isolated mating apiary site, and wanted to check out the local (Drone) competition. More normal than leaving hidden messages in Polish ...

Bees can be kept in all sorts of different boxes. Which system you choose is personal preference. The size and thus number of boxes is one factor. Lug length preference is another. IMHO the National family's long lugs are easier for the hobbyist/beginner. But short lugs (Langstroths...

I use 14x12. A few wood. But mainly Paynes poly. The BHS is more expensive but has better hand-holds. The Swienty from CWJ, etc lacks proper bottom beespaces. The handholds become important when you try and move the thing when its well-filled. Realistically, its something that you should...