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Well, weighing things up, I decided to give my first new Amm queen another brood box rather than a super, it made far more sense. She is now on eighteen frames and looking humungous, won't need feeding for winter that's for sure. The other two here are in full hives and looking very strong as we...

During my powerlifting days part of my breakfast involved munching through four slices of granary toast spread with marmite and topped with four poached eggs. mmmmm :)

This is the problem with beekeeping, there can be quite some variation depending on where we live and how we treat so we really need to find out what is best for our area and bees rather than take someone's advice as absolute fact. Because everyone thinks their way is the best way. ;)

A clipped wing is a damaged wing. A blob of paint is also sometimes enough reason for the colony to reject the queen, especially a new, not yet established queen. Over the years I've had a few disappear without trace after marking. As I posted, I lost that queen a couple of weeks ago, the paint...

Why anyone would want to shoot one for picking up a few bees is beyond me

Better to avoid filling honey supers with sugar.

Go for it.

I doubt a crow is going to eat all those bees ;)

Wait until you have the extractor, clear the super and extract the honey. Remove the supers for winter and feed syrup.

Any chance the bees objected to one or more of the following? New genetics. A damaged queen via clipping and/or marking. I marked a queen earlier this year once I found a decent pattern of worker brood. She waltzed off and made straight for a hole in the comb and then proceeded to back out of...

Just looked at their site, it says 30% off bee suits but the triple layer vented is still £169.99.

Mine is the earlier type that doesn't have velcro, just elasticated cuffs. Anywhere that the material can potentially be pulled tight has always been an area where bees can sting through, I bought mine for comfort rather than protection and it is excellent in that respect. Long zips on the legs...

That is Bell Heather.

My mention of Pete was from a telephone conversation where he brought the subject up when talking about imperial spacing. You are right about the imperial frames they made.

I posted about this before, a batch of duff hoffman seconds that allowed twelve frames in the box plus space enough for a dummy board.

Yootoobers. Best ignored.

Peter Little used to use castellations. I've used them myself in the past, they give a nice frame spacing.

In that case, slot a double screen board under the top box when you want cells created. Top box packed with nurse bees and two frames of eggs from your chosen mother queen and they will draw some nice cells.

Normal frame runners and no means of spacing? Or do you mean castellated runners? I understand what you say about hoffman spacers, the bees love to jump on the exposed bit of the sidebar and it's the bit that slows down inspections as you try to move them.

I'd steer clear of any yootoober offerings.