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But there are faff (=time) implications with SN1s and having to use frame spacers (or castellations). Do you get them drawn out on narrow and then swap to wide etc? Take them off for extraction or leave them on only for them to come off in the extractor?

Sad to hear of Peter's passing away. RIP. Steve Donohoe has written a short article about Peter here Peter Little.

The importer (Melo bees) is quite open about their country of origin on his Facebook page.

My understanding is that queen imports will face more stringent requirements from 1st April 2022 as they will have to be through a Border Customs Post of which there are only two, Heathrow and Manchester. At present they can come in through any freight airport but this comes to an end on 31...

As Eton own the lake used for rowing at the 2012 Olympics, I don't think there'd be much doubt about it.

Tesco's own are £1 a pair, so same.

Worth bearing in mind that one big colony will store more honey than two modest ones. Why not combine and go double brood? If the old queen has valuable genetics keep her going in a nuc?

I have sold that amount of honey through honeyforsale.co.uk and also through Facebook marketplace. The likes of Rowse are not interested in buckets or less than 1 metric tonne in barrels.

Thanks, I *think* when I tried to order something direct from the Lyson website I was directed towards Abelo.

Are Konigin happy for you to bypass their Uk dealers?

Thanks for the ideas, various things to try. One of the suspect colonies is next to the gap in the hedge where I go to and from my car to inspect the hives so RAB's comment above is interesting.

I have started to cull the queens from suspect colonies and combine with friendlier neighbours but the problem persists.

That would work but I'm fearful that could be a lengthy process. I'm moving some hives to a new apiary so hopefully a combination of single hive inspections and relocation will identify the miscreants. Less competition for forage will presumably also help.

Inspected most hives yesterday. The good flow that was making every frame drip with nectar last week has come to a halt in SE Worcestershire. One apiary plagued by aggressive folllowers which I need to sort. First issue to resolve will be to work out which hive(s) - I'm fairly sure the majority...

Slugs, dead bees and mould inside the gloss painted feeders on the Paynes nucs was a good enough reason for me. The perspex cover sheets had an extra few mm of brace comb and propolis each side that was compromising any insulation properties of the roof. Plus some side rails were getting so...

The first time a wooden box is flame scorched it is straightforward to see where has been done. How do you ensure it is done thoroughly when it needs to be done again? Or are wooden boxes only scorched when EFB is suspected/confirmed and you'd have to be very unlucky to have it twice? (I've...

If the NBU/Beebase system works and registered beekeepers close to an outbreak automatically receive notification, why is there a need to add more complexity/gold plate it?

Sounds like a lot of manipulations. I'd use a strong colony with a clipped young queen and maintain thorough swarm check inspections throughout. With no queen there is a risk of back filling the brood frames as new bees emerge and colonies can also lose their drive if Q-.

She needs to get in touch with Alex Ellis of the BFA, Contact the Association - Bee Farmers Association I'm not aware of any beefarmers who employ staff very near to Bristol but there are several in the South West - Peter Little, Quince Honey Farm, Wainwrights Honey BS Honeybees, Maisemore are...

Yes perfectly normal to see dead bees outside the hive. As the old saying goes, where there's livestock there's deadstock.