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As Erichalfbee DWV due to varroa. In a pollen dearth or weak hive if the bees were eating the larvae, you wouldn't see eggs and the larvae inside the cells would be half munched.

This appears to be the best review. But I haven't seen how long 1 charge would last in an apiary or apiaries. Apisolis have their own forum and plenty of review videos.

Open the gate and swing your arms, then when in the car, beep your horn as you enter the field. Oh the joys of rounding up stray sheep and going into fields and also being followed by a herd of cows on Dartmoor in my youth. Otherwise carry a klaxon in your apiary kit.

When you walk up to the apiary you are making tracks as well. Move 6 inches to left or right of your track every time you go there and see if anything is mentioned.

Use the front tow hook of a car parked in the field as a pulley system to move the WBC on a ski like platform. Might have to do it in stages depending on the equipment you have.

Most of the time, they are ready to use straight out of the box without calibration. I had one dodgy refractometer that showed different readings with different calibration fluids. Expensive calibration oil showing a brix of 60 and liquid paraffin showing 24.5 water content has matched up with 2...

The difference is that the original owner has been approached and is open to a conversation. Let that run its course and move forward from there. There was a UK beekeeper on YouTube who had found abandoned beehives and had filmed them, but later took those videos down and concentrated more on...

Use the SBI, take photos of the hives and their occupancy and show the owner, then have a conversation.

This is one of the ones I use 254719424236 on ebay

Seconded

True, but the OP would have to use brood from another hive. But I've smoked them enough to get it to work.

For hive 2, have an empty nuc box or brood chamber ready, to look for the queen, place the frames in pairs, between the hive and spare brood chamber or nuc, keeping the frames away from the side walls. If there is a queen she will go to the dark areas between the frames, all you have to do after...

Looking at this again, hive 2 is weak, did you add a frame of eggs with or without the queen in the hive? Did you kill the queen and then add eggs, or haven't you been able to find the queen? They may not have made queencells because the hive is queen-right. Hive 3 may be tetchy because they...

For 2. and 3. I would have combined them and removed all queen cells and queens that you can find, then either buy a queen or add a frame of eggs and larvae from the strong hive once you know they are definitely queenless. You still have one strong hive. Or take frames of bias from the strong...

I've done different iterations of a pagden, this is more like the 'ELTALIA' (brings back bad memories) school of swarm control @judy12 where he made out he had bumper crops. Moving the queen away from the flying bees does emulate something close to a leaving swarm, but, with only old worker bees...

Speak for yourself🤣

Just do a bit of gobbledegook on this thread to get your replies up, or a few monosyllabic replies and you will be on your way😁

I'm in Pontyclun, only half hour away if you want to DM me

He was last seen over 2 years ago

I've moved my bees twice to different fields with one farmer. Luckily they still want bees on their land but they also hold horsey events. As thorn suggests and use vehicle to get close to the apiary, arm yourself with an umbrella to deter the dogs, when you open and close the umbrella they see...