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A bit of a botch up and gaffer tape

I popped the cells from the board put them in the cell holders and put them back in the same position. I'd removed all open brood, only capped cells 24 hrs earlier when I locked in the queen. I removed the queen when I placed the cell holder back in. I wonder now if the queenless period was too...

Having read the Apiarist blog I had a go last week. A standard frame with 3/8 hardboard inset. Nicot cell sized hole drilled in hardboard with foundation placed on board. Queen cells pushed through the foundation into the board. 80 cells in all, queen locked in and laid in all cells after 24hrs...

This was a one of in spring time, that allegedly cooled the body response for that year

30 years ago my reaction got progressively worse to the point I was advised to stop. I found a paper in the Moir library up here advising 2 piriton and an aspirin 30 minutes before grasping your bee. To be completed each spring. I did this for a few years, after that I barely see a reaction even...

It's far too cheap for anyone to make money on it

The reaction to stings quite often can be greater with each sting. I found this, to the point where my GP advised giving up. I found an article which escapes me, where it advises each spring to take 1 aspirin and 2 piriton, 30minutes before grasping your bee to ensure a sting. More difficult...

15mm open ended copper tube into top of hive did not blast into the hive, but gently wafted in like a summer breeze, perhaps fitting nozzles is the reason a higher temp is needed with the blow torch giving a high tube pressure

Did they understand why, was it co poisoning

Is the poor temperature control the concern when using a copper pipe and a blowtorch, this seemed the cheaper ,lighter and quicker option

I've discovered pound shop Formica iron on to any type of poly works a treat for top insulation boards

I used 25mm for 3 frames the nucs have done well through the summer, I like the way weak nucs manage to raise brood in good numbers. I was advised on this forum to line with Formica and with a wooden entrance block they've lasted well. I can see a few improvements and at 70p a unit this will be...

Used the fablon and some 22mm copper pipe for the entrance so far so good and no apparent sweating thanks again for advice

I posted this some time ago, after a build up in reaction and advice to give up I found a paper in the moir library of the SBA advising 2piriton and 1aspirin taken 30 mins before grasping your bee in the palm of your hand would condition the body to reduce its reaction, carried out each spring...

Dampness was always an issue with solid floors, hence the 2 matchsticks under rear of the crown board, even this was limited in success and position didn't make much difference. I've never had a problem with damp since moving to OMF a few years ago. I think the insulation from floor up must the...

Thanks for the help. I'll try the PVC pipe

I'll try that thanks, @at 50p for 4 and some handicraft therapy they haven't cost much

They were made from 25mm packing and painted inside and out with masonry paint. I made a full size brood last year with 50mm thick same style, it seems to have survived the paint seems to put them off chewing it up, though I don't suppose they will last

assuming I have bees to breed from this year, I've built some 25mm 3 frame nucs for queen breeding. Going through some old posts some have tried to banK winter queens in various types of small poly apideas with some success, no one has mentioned losses due to dampness or mould problems. I've...

Rather a long story but you did ask. I started last winter with 8 young queens and 1 2nd year, well fed and hives full of bees, for the first time I used trickle OA instead of gas. I had one 3 frame hive lead by the 2nd year queen and 3 young queens with a handfull of bees, I was advised that...