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Shrinkflation works, especially for honey.

Diodes still give a variable voltage drop, waste power and limit the lowest battery voltage. Using WiFi doesn't need to consume 250mA. The ESP32 typically needs 150mA max. Decent other regulators are here, and using the LM2596 here with 80uA standby and can be switched off.

Nothing wrong with most Ebay suppliers. Batteries are as easy to recycle as any others. Diodes are a bad choice, but voltage regulators boards are efficient and cheap.

Plenty on Ebay for example, 6Ah for £7.00

LiFePO4 cells at 3.2V are the best and cheapest for the ESP32 with a huge capacity. But a wildlife camera is the easiest to use.

Nothing to do with science or harmonics; they only occur at much higher frequencies and not relevant anyway. More to do with engineering and cost as 3 spokes are the minimum to support the cage centrally, and then each segment is divided into 3 frame supports for maximum width frames, and 4...

Total rubbish.

Took 2 frames of BIAS and 4 frames of stores into a nucleus placed next to the parent hive. These are 14x12 frames. Has all worked well, as usual, with about 8 emergency QCs after 8 days, plenty of flying and nurse bees and additional stores collected since the split. No robbing from 3 hives...

In a so-called walk-away split to make an additional colony, the recommendation is often to leave the queenless part alone for 30 days until the queen is laying. But is it better to reduce the QCs produced to the best one or two after 8 or 9 days, as recommended here? As the bees were not...

Be careful wax moth doesn't get them.

Is smoking a hive food safe? Or the use of unsterilised wooden frames, or hive boxes? Honey producton in general is not "food safe".

Yes workshop towels as Randy also used, usually laid over the frames but can be hung over them, same effect.

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Plenty of past threads on the subject and on Youtube. Just use a heat gun to melt the cappings with a quick pass over the comb. They usually open by themselves but even if not, a quick scrape over while melted with an uncapping comb opens them all.

Don't get cappings because I use a heat gun to uncap; no mess, no waste.

A crazy idea. Supers are for storing honey in summer and removing it when ready, not for leaving on in the winter. The brood box should contain enough stores for winter and keep the brood compact in a dense, warm space. Also certainly not "standard practice" to treat in August.

Swan feathers are best, but the swans don't like it!

A jar is a jar: a slight difference in a curve or line here or there is not something that bothers me or people I sell to.

pity, I did point it out 2 weeks ago but most reactions were sniffy.

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