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I get 100lb per hive and yes no stings. Like I said location is the key. If my bees are aggressive I change the environment they are in. NOT THE QUEEN. My family has been keeping bees commercially for 4 generations and as a result I'm not from the modern school of beekeeping. There's a lot you...

Location is key! any bee is gentle when it's happy. Give it good forage and little competition and your on to a winner. That's why commercial beeks have to buy in Queens. If you only have one or two use whatever as long as local environment is good. I've kept 30 mungrels hives for 15 years and...

Not sure how best to answer. I would never advise removing honey unless you are ready to extract as it will set in the comb and make it very difficult to remove. However as long as it is stored in a cool dry place it should store fine. Mainly the capping is to stop the honey absorbing moisture...

It's what I would have done 😊

It may well be ready even if not capped. Usually after swarming the colony's priorities change to Queen production and they may not cap the ripened honey. Take a frame out and shake horizontally if no honey drips out its good to go. Obviously it's preferable to extract when capped as it's the...

Don't let your guard down. Continue to check the original hive every 7 days right through to end of July. However my advise would be to not go into the split for at least 30 days. If you upset the mating process you will end up queenless. Plus there is nothing you can do for them until the Queen...

It can take 20 days to mate. Then another 20 to begin laying. In my experience if they have not begun laying after 30 days I'll add a queen cell and check daily. if the Queen begins to lay remove the cell and if not allow the new queen to emerge and start again

Hi just keep an eye on them they will probably be late bloomers but I'd probably give them a dose of hive clean. It is only semi successful for treating varoa but I find it can give a weaker colony a boost. Hope all goes well from here